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I made this somewhat crude re-saw fence in about 15 minutes and it works great. Starting with a 3-5" wide, 20" long piece of 8/4 stock, joint a 90 degree face and edge. Attach a scrap piece of 3/4" pvc water pipe (somewhat shorter than the stock you'll be re-sawing) to the jointed face perpendicular to the length.
Do this by first preparing the pipe at the drill press by drilling a couple 5/16" holes along one side (large enough to accept the head of a pan-head wood screw), then changing to a 1/8" bit (large enough to accept the shank of the wood screw) and plunging through the center of the first hole to drill out the other side (the pipe rests in a block of wood with a 'v' groove in it designed for drilling holes in chair legs for spindles.
The pipe is clamped to this block to prevent rotating while drilling and stays in that orientation so all holes are drilled from the same side). Strike a perpendicular line across the face of your 8/4 stock with a square, then align the pipe with the 3/8" holes facing you to that line by sighting through those holes until you see your line through the 1/8" holes on the other side. Hold in place while you screw in a 1" panhead wood screw into the 3/8" hole, through the pipe and out the 1/8" hole into the board on the other side (keep the end of the pipe a bit away from the jointed edge of your 8/4 board so there's no overhang).
To re-saw, first set up your bandsaw with a wide blade with as few teeth as possible and tension it well (I use a 3/4" blade with 3 tpi and get it tight as is safe). Make sure the blade is 90 degrees to your bandsaw table and set the upper guide a little higher than the width of the stock you're re-sawing. Prep the stock by jointing all sides square, then using a pen, scribe equidistant lines along the edge that will be face up, spaced at a bit over the the finished thickness you're looking for (the re-sawed pieces will be jointed and/or planed and/or drum-sanded to the desired finished dimension).
Next attach the jig to the bandsaw table - if you have fence for your table the jig can be bolted to that or as in my case a couple quick clamps well tightened do the trick. Adjust the jig so the edge of the pipe closest to the blade is just in front of the teeth (1/16-1/8"), is parallel to the blade (adjust the blade or shim under the jig until it is) and is approx. the distance from the blade as the lines on your stock are spaced apart.
This last measurement doesn't have to be exact as this style of re-sawing doesn't rely on a fence to produce the the thickness of the finished stock but rather the pipe provides a 'pivot point' around which the stock travels while you cut along the lines you've scribed. It took me awhile to understand this concept-and several ruined boards-but it turns out that unless you have a dedicated re-saw machine with a 2" wide blade your bandsaw blade will wander through the stock.
Although with this method you're really 'free-handing' the cut, by using the pipe to pivot the stock around you can compensate for this wander and stay right on your line. Practice with scrap, use a slow feed rate (especially with hard woods) and learn your bandsaw's wandering tendencies. With practice, I'm now able to consistently re-saw stock to 1/8" with less than 1/32" deviation. Happy (re)sawing!
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