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Contaminants in High-Gloss FinishQuestion
Details:
However, with the exception of the dust problem, it looks amazing (see top two photos). It dries rock hard to a mirror shine. The Arm-R-Seal is great because it’s thin, and levels very well. There are no visible brush marks whatsoever. The problem (I believe) is that it’s so thin (almost water thin) that even the tiniest dust particle will break the surface tension, causing a bump once dried. I’m guessing that with thicker cuts of urethane or lacquer, dust particles will just rest on the surface and not cause large bumps once dried. I’ve used small sample pieces to try buffing out the finish, however I’ve never been able to achieve anything close to the sheen that I get without buffing. In short, what I’d like to do is stick with the finish I’m using, but somehow eliminate dust from the equation. I’ve tried suspending a plastic barrier over the bench (and slightly over the sides). I lower it so that it’s about two or three inches from the surface after I’m done applying the finish. It works, but not great; there’s still a lot of dust falling on the surface. The picture you see is the best result I’ve gotten so far. One reason I think this method (of not buffing out the final coat) may be possible is Bob’s response to the Knowledge Base article on buffing out a lacquer finish (Buffing Out a Lacquer Finish). He said that his company used to buff out their finishes, but transitioned to spraying on the final sheen because it produced a more resilient finish. How does he, or others in the industry, avoid dust on the final coat? Is there some way I can create a dust-free environment or enclosure to apply my final coat? Is there a better way to approach this?  By the way, the two upper pictures labeled "good" are pictures taken at flattering angles. The photo at the bottom left is one taken at a not-so-flattering angle... I would like the bench to look like the top photos when viewed from any angle. Forum Responses
"How does he, or others in the industry, avoid dust on the final coat?" Avoiding dust is one thing. Eliminating it entirely is another. That requires a Rolls Royce finishing room; out of reach even for most trade finishers. 1. The way professionals do a gloss finish is to rub it out. Miniscule specs such as you are contending with are taken care of easily in the rubbing process. 2. The longer a finish takes to dry at the surface, the more dust will show. Professionals use fast drying finishes, such as lacquer and other high tech coatings. 3. It is not realistic to expect a quality gloss finish unless you intend to rub it out. If I am not rubbing out the finish, I stick with a satin or semi-gloss sheen at most. In a satin sheen, these tiny dust specs are far less conspicuous. I'd say 11 coats of finish is more than enough film thickness already. Perhaps if you let that finish cure out really well (a month at least), you can polish it out to a marvelous result. Polishing finishes gets into instruction that is way beyond the reach of anything here. That is not to say it is too hard for anyone to learn, just that more detail is needed.
From the original questioner: This finish seems pretty fisheye resistant, although I have been very carefully cleaning the surface before each coat. It took a lot of experimenting with samples for me to decide that dust was the problem. In certain lights I can see things falling on it and creating the bumps that you see in the picture. Are there dryers that I can add to the topcoat to make it dry faster? Can I help it dry by using a dehumidifier or is humidity not a factor in the drying time of an oil and urethane topcoat? If it's possible, you could make a ventilation fan, dust scrubber or something that sucks up and out of your room, whether it's a dedicated room or a temporary setup. I've seen it done in a small room where the dust collection sucks up. The floor was very lightly dampened with water. I haven't done it yet. First thing you need to do is get a painter's file or Nib File to remove the bumps from the dust. Sanding is just going to remove more of the finish, leaving less to rub out, making more dust to get into the new coat of finish. When you get the nib file you will use it on only the effected areas. It sort of works like a shaver, scatting over the smooth area and removing the high spot. Next wet sand and then buff. Wet sand with an air sander, working your way down to the finest grit you can get your hands on. Use a catsup bottle, fill it with warm soapy water and add mineral spirits to help lubricate the paper better. Squirt and sand as you go. You will notice that a bumpy area feels different from a smooth area even through the sander. You will feel the drag on the sander (even a tiny bump) when the surface feels the same all over. Wipe it with a terry towel to pick up the mess. Check the surface very carefully. Where there are high spots you will notice an area around the spot that's still shiny. Go after this area again and wipe with the towel to see if the shiny spot is gone. Go to a finer grit paper and again keep at it till everything feels the same. This is important as at this point you can no loner see the difference as the scratches are too fine.
Did you use a sealer such as dewaxed shellac between the Danish Oil and the finish coat? Did you give the Danish oil ample time to harden and seep out of wood pores before top coating? Some oils need one week to really dry... Also, fisheye can be caused by dust, not because of the fact that it's dust, but because certain dust particles react with or repel certain finish coats. If you can not find the source of the dust that is reactive (it could be from anything in the room, including your spray-on antiperspirant or hand lotion), it might be better to switch to something such as a quick drying lacquer. Have you called tech support for that product also? Can you put on 11 coats without problems? From the original questioner: I'm not sure if I can use that many coats, but I sure hope so. Even though I used 11 or so coats, I suspect it's probably only about 5 coats thick because of all the sanding between coats. I'll try calling the tech support line for General Finishes to see what's happening. I would like to comment on the importance of the rubbing and buffing of a finish to get the high gloss desired. This is the only way to get a spectacular high gloss, dust- or contaminant-free surface. To achieve this 'off the gun' is asking for too much. That is not to say it can't be done, but in cannot be done with the same results as rubbing and buffing. You aren't completing the job without the final steps! What your picture shows is fisheye. Dust in the finish would have the exact opposite effect of your illustration. The surface tension would make the finish cling to the dust and make a mountain out of a mole hill. What is breaking the surface tension is oil or silicone. There is either external contamination or your oil was not dry. Check the Knowledge Base for possible solutions. Yes, I too believe it is fisheye and it may be coming from dirty air lines and tank that is not drained at regular intervals. Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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