Elevator Panel Retrofit Methods

Tips for removing and replacing plastic laminate elevator wall paneling. April 14, 2010

Question
We are doing casework on a job and the owner wants a price to redo some elevator panels. There are no visible fasteners and they are not hanging on z clips. I can’t imagine fastening these and then laminating them in place. Are there any other options for installing these panels with the laminate completed?

Forum Responses
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
From contributor H:
Double check the hanging to make sure it is always tight with metal z clips. Check where the hand rails are fastened - it can be blind anchors behind the rails.

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From contributor K:
Elevator panels are bolted from behind or bolted from the face and them laminated over at the factory. Anything you add to an elevator has to be flame proofed and the elevator has to be recalibrated to justify the weight difference. Check your local codes because in some states you have to be registered to work on elevators.

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From contributor Q:
I have done this many times. Sometimes the panels come off with hidden fasteners behind the bump rail and sometimes they are attached and then veneered in place. I have done both types. If you have one that seems to not lift off you will have to pry/break them off and build new ones.

You can install the new ones with z clips of you can just use propane type contact glue to place with dollops of liquid nails in places for long term security. Just make sure that you make a mechanical connection through the bump/grab rail with some fresh self tapper bolts through a sleeve ring and then the rail attached to it with a set screw. Make sure the bolts are not too long though you don't want the elevator guy to get cut by an end sticking out to far when he is behind the elevator for service (most of the time they are above or below anyhow but better to not create any snag points). I have many cabs out there with these methods and no problems to date.