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Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Glue Choice for an Antique Clock Repair 
Question
Forum Responses
From contributor D: If they'd had Titebond, they'd have used it too. From contributor J: Hide glue is the choice of professionals. It can be reversed with warm water or vinegar. You can buy cold hide in most big box stores. It works as easy as or easier than Titebond. It will be stronger than the wood when cured. From contributor K: If you use Titebond, they make a dark color glue for dark woods such as walnut, mahogany, etc. If the clock is dark, I would use that. Your glue line will be near invisible. From contributor M: If you were working on a joint that might have to be reversed, then hide glue is the correct glue to use. If I understand correctly, the case has been broken and needs to be repaired. Since this is not likely something that will need to be reversed, and was not part of the cabinetmaker's design, then use a permanent glue. From contributor X: First off, I'd check and see if there are any dates on the clock movements or ask how old the clock is. White and yellow glue has been used for a very long time. 40 years ago it may have been assembled with yellow glue. Try to date it so as too know what was done prior. Also take into consideration the finish. Will it have to be redone? Some of the new glues used sparingly may suffice. As long as you don't make a mess of it.
From the original questioner: Thanks. This clock is over 100 years old, but I agree that if the original builder had yellow glue, that is probably what they would have used, and the point made that this repair will never have to be taken apart leads me towards using yellow glue. I haven't tried to pull the broken pieces together yet. When I do, if there is any kind of a gap, I probably would lean towards hide glue just because it seems that the glue itself would be less noticeable. Once again, thanks for the input. From contributor K: I’ve learned the hard way that repairs, even apparently perfect, seamless repairs, can drastically reduce the value of a piece, if not done correctly. I always tell folks that I can restore beauty and functionality, but I am not a restorer. If there is any question that this might be a piece of significant value, I urge folks to see a professional. If they persist, and I am reasonably sure of the piece’s ordinariness, I’ll price it. Then, if they don’t mind paying me more than Grandma’s dressing table is worth, I’m glad to spend some time with it. If you are a small enough operation where you can afford to get paid to putz, it can be very rewarding. The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment). Comment from contributor B:
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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