Today's
Sponsors:


Rex Lumber Company

Riethmiller Lumber

Ritter Manufacturing Inc.

Roberts WebForge, Inc.

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

Roger Shaw and Associates

Rose Machinery

RouterCAD

RT Machine Co.

Safety Speed Cut

Sand-Rite Manufacturing

Sandman Products

Sawmill and Woodlot Magazine

SCM Group USA

Sears Trostel Lumber Co.

ShopBot

SII Dry Kilns

Silvaris

Simantech

Sinker Treasures

SIS Machinery

SNX Technologies

Solid Setup

South State Machinery

Southeast Tool, Inc.

Sovereign Machine, Inc.

Specialtytools.com

Speed Sander

Sprayguncaptain.com

Steve H. Wall Lumber Co.

Stiles Machinery

Stiles Shop Solutions

Super Source Tooling Inc.

Supergrit Abrasives

Oliver Machinery Co.

Omnitech Systems

Oneida Air Systems

Onsrud Cutter

Opti-Sand

Optisol for Project Scheduling

Orange Aluminum

Original Saw Company

Osborne Wood Products

Paragon Enterprises

Patrick Lumber Company

Penn Sylvan International

People Logic Software Corp.

Peterson Portable Sawmills

Pinske Edge

Pioneer Lumber Company

Planit Solutions

Porter-Cable

Preservation Solutions

Prime Estimating and Software Services, LLC

Primo Woodworking Machinery

Pro.Woodworker.com

Professional Machinery Group

PSL Optimization Software

Quality VAKuum Products, Inc.

Quickscrews International Corporation

QuickScribe

QuickWood, Inc.

QuikDrawers

R&R Drummond, Inc.

R.A.W.

RazorGage




Glue for a Laminated Plywood Circle

      Woodworkers discuss gluing up a laminated mirror frame of plywood. October 11, 2007

Question
I have to build a circular frame to go around a round mirror on a dresser I'm refinishing for a customer. I'm looking for suggestions. The mirror is about 3f in diameter. Thinking of getting some 1/8 or similar plywood and laminating it in a circle around a mirror-size particleboard template. Will regular old Titebond II do the job, or is another type glue more appropriate?

Forum Responses
(Adhesive Forum)
From contributor M:
I'd use a urea formaldehyde glue such as Unibond 800 or Urac 185. I'd think that you want the extra open time, as well as a glue that dries very rigid so that it helps to hold the shape as much as it's holding the layers together. I use Unibond and like it because you can make the glue lines disappear in laminated work. It's got three differently colored catalyzers that make the glue lines disappear on projects made from maple through to bubinga, jarrah, or wenge.



From contributor S:
If you don't see the back of the frame, I would use PVA and a kreg jig to kreg screw it together at the joints. If the back is exposed, consider a biscuit cutter; #10's work great. Added benefit, keeps faces flush while clamping.


From the original questioner:
Contributor M, you are the second person to recommend Unibond. I'll be giving it a try.

Yes, the back will be hidden. I'm also weighing options on how to make the laminations look like solid hardwood. I'm thinking veneer it?



From contributor J:
Unibond would be my glue of choice too. It sets with a rigid glue line so there is little worry of "cold creep." PVAs never really become a rigid glue line, so your plies could move over time. With an 18" radius, I think 1/8" plies are going to be too thick to bend cold. I would suggest 1/16" for that tight of a radius.

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Adhesives, Gluing and Laminating

  • KnowledgeBase: Adhesives, Gluing and Laminating: Glues and Bonding Agents




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2012 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB













  •   Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article