Heat-Bending Long Pieces of Solid Surfacing
Question (WOODWEB Member) :
On second thought: You are only looking for a 12" deflection over 10 feet, from center to end. You can achieve this by just flexing the material at room temperature. Just make sure that your joint to the top is fully cured before removing clamps. I hope this helps.
From contributor H:
If you can get the proper heat to the material it bends like a dream. Almost anything is possible.
From contributor B:
Find a local powder coating shop with a walk in oven. Heat and bend and make up a form with the radius and cover it with 1/4 MDF skin.
From contributor C:
The walk-in oven sounds the best. Many years ago at an ISSFA training session, we used a, for the lack of a better description, a propane torch. We just waved it back and forth across the acrylic slowly. With the Corian laying flat we heated the it for thermoforming. As it heated you could tell when it was getting plastic, by picking up an end to see the sag. We then clamped the edging to a form. We actually doubled the thickness, after heating each piece individually, one piece on top of the other on the form. I know this sounds crude, but it worked just fine. It occurs to me that an infra-red thermometer $30 would help. Know when the acrylic was at prime bending temperature.
I'm not so sure about bending this stuff without heat, as the built up stress could lead to a crack starting at the outside of the bend. The reason I say this is at the solid surface training center that I attended, stressed very much the need to have "0" stress on the sheet, whether on a flat plane or on a curved plane.
From contributor R:
How about an industrial eating blanket or two? I think I remember them being available at luthiers mercantile for guitar making/bending.
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