|
|
|
| Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article | Login | Become a Member | What's New | Site Map |
|
WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ... |
|
|
Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Making Custom Storm Doors Fit 
Question
Forum Responses
From contributor A: The dimensions on drawings provided by anyone other than yourself typically have little if any relevance to the final project built and installed. That is the point of doing shop drawings. The shops are exact representations of the final product. If you knew that you were matching some existing work, wouldn't you want to see them in person before you started? From the original questioner: I did see the existing doors, several times. I did check to see if the dimensions for the parts were accurate and they were. I just dropped the ball on the opening size and how the slope of the threshold would change the alignment of the muntins. Lesson learned. I've been in the business long enough to know better. From contributor T: Regarding sawing off the top, and adding to the bottom to correct the alignment... and do it by extending the stiles too, not just adding a piece across full width. This has got me wondering how long the bottom of this door system is going to last! That's no way to "fix" a door. You'd be a lot better off leaving it as it is...
From contributor D: There is no way to extend the stiles at the bottom that would pass anyone's standards of craft. Besides the issue of craft, this is definitely in the combat zone as far as weather, water, etc. This would indicate new stiles, and therefore most likely new doors. The only legitimate fix would be to "shoe" the door. This is common with very old doors and is a good, legit fix for damaged or reused doors. The shoe is usually plowed to receive the full thickness of the door, the full length, notched to fit around stops, etc. Sometimes it looks better as a bead on the bottom, with a reveal between it and the door. Epoxy this on and clamp with nails. This has the technical advantage of getting the end grain out of the water and sealing the bottom of the sash, and the shoe will take the wear, tear, and rot. The trick is to sell your customer on this as a premium rather than a get-over. I truly think it is a premium, it just is not often done. And it will be a hard sell if the customer already is aware of the problem.
From contributor L: Would a nice, full width, brass kick plate help solve this problem? From the original questioner: The architect realized that extending the stiles would be very weak after I pointed it out, and he looked at a door I put a full length piece on the bottom of and he agreed to it. Doors are all hung now with proper alignment of the muntins. Now to repair the one they want me to rescue! From contributor C: Perhaps the most valuable lesson of all is that any time we put a product in production, we either need field verified dimensions or a "Hold to Dimension" signed agreement with your client. Either way, proper project management never has a shortcut. Did your shop's drawings show the rough opening required to fit these doors? Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
|
