|
|
|
| Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article | Login | Become a Member | What's New | Site Map |
|
WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ... |
|
|
Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Minimizing melamine chip-out Question
Forum Resonses
20 sheets is good for this type of blade. I usually only get 12-15 until I get too much chipping. Look at your blade in the sunlight. If you see any shine at the tip, it's dull (look closely--it's hard to see). If it starts to chip on the top, raise your blade height slightly. This will reduce chipping by decreasing blade angle and pull the melamine paper onto the core. XL 4000 refers to F-S Tools brand of long-wear carbide. You must still have the correct blade for cutting melamine. The prefix on the part number will be LM. This blade has a negative hook and a high alternate top bevel, which is about 25~. This blade will wear more rapidly, and playing with the blade height will help eliminate chipping. We don't have a scoring saw. I tried the High ATB blades and didn't like them. We use the concave face blade. I don't know that it is more economical to run, but I think it gives less chipping. To maximize the blade life, we use it only for parts that show on two sides, and use a triple chip for all-over melamine cuts. Years ago we started out with a conventional table saw and tried several types of LV blades to cut melamine. I do not think we got more that a few sheets cut at any time between sharpenings prior to chipping. There is a scoring blade attachment called Modulus that can be added to most saws. All we have ever worked with is melamine and if you are cutting much, I would highly recommend getting an Altendorf or another good slider with a scoring blade. If you are cutting more than a unit a day I would recommend a beam saw. For the last 5 years, I was using an ATB 80th. I always had chip out. To get rid of chip out, you needed a scoring saw like the Delta rt31. I had to sharpen the blade after 50 sheets of 5/8 melamine. Until I found the "Dimar" melamine blade #10-80TN. This blade has a 6' neg hook and cuts excellently. You have to look real close to tell which is the bottom. Blade height does matter--approximately 1/2" above surface. I just finished my second lift with the same blade (100 sheets). The throat plate is very important! I cut a laminated piece and lift the blade into it to have just the right clearance on the sides and the front of the blade. The difference is unbelievable! I have had a modulus blade for many years. It was invented in Canada and it is my most prized blade. It cuts sheet after sheet and keeps going and has a very simple design. That's right about the throat. I go through about 10 to 15 per month in order to keep the chips down to a minimum. I make my throats out of 1/2" MDF and use the system screws from BLUM to level it in my table saw. Also, don't forget to check your fence to ensure that it is true with your fence.
We have the same problem that you're having with blades chipping on melamine after just a few cuts. One thing that has helped us a lot is to make sure that the wood we are using is a pine core. I also use a forest brand blade without the scoring blade attachment. This lets me cut about 40 sheets before I need to change blades. The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment). Comment from contributor A:
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
|
