Today's
Sponsors:


Royce Ayr Cutting Tools

RT Machine Co.

Safety Speed Cut

Sand-Rite Manufacturing

Sandman Products

Sawmill and Woodlot Magazine

Schultz Forming Products

SCM Group USA, Inc.

SCM Group

SCM

Sears Trostel Lumber Co.

Shade Dri

Shomaker Lumber Company

ShopBot

SII Dry Kilns

Silvaris

Simantech

Single Source Cabinet Supplies

SIS Machinery

SK-USA

SketchList

SlipCon USA, Inc.

SnapDragon Associates, LLC

SNX Technologies

South State Machinery

Southeast Tool, Inc.

Sovereign Machine, Inc.

North Pacific Lumber

Northstate Hardwoods

Northtech Machinery

NPO BARS

O'Shea Lumber Company

Old Mississippi Brick and Heart Pine Company

Omnitech Systems

Onsrud Cutter

Open the Door Products

Opti-Sand

Optisol for Project Scheduling

Original Saw Company

Osborne Wood Products

Paragon Enterprises

Patton Cabinet Doors

Peninsula Hardwoods

Penn Sylvan International

People Logic Software Corp.

Pinske Edge

Pioneer Lumber Company

Pioneer Millworks

Plogic Solutions Ltd.

Pond Cove Paint

Porter-Cable

Precision Drive Systems

Premium Specialty Hardwoods

Prime Estimating and Software Services, LLC

Primo Woodworking Machinery

Pro.Woodworker.com

Pro100

Professional Hardware & Supply Co.

Professional Machinery Group

PYTHA

Quality VAKuum Products, Inc.

Quick Machinery Company

Quickscrews International Corporation

QuickScribe

QuikDrawers

R&R Drummond, Inc.

R.A.W.

R.D. Billhofer Company

Rangate

Rawles-Aden Lumber Corp.

RazorGage

Rex Lumber Company

Riethmiller Lumber

Ritter Manufacturing Inc.

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

Roger Shaw and Associates

Rose Machinery

Routech

RouterCAD




Moulding maple versus oak       Why such problematic tearout on one and not the other? September 23, 2003

Question
We are starting to run maple mouldings along with our oak mouldings. Everything I have read says that they should mould the same. They both need similar hook angles, and knife cuts per inch. My problem is that I am getting a great amount of tearout on the maple. I can run oak pieces right behind the maple and they turn out fine. I have also checked the moisture content of the wood, and it is very close for both species. The oak is at 8% and the maple is about 8.75%. Why am I getting so much more tearout on the maple?

Forum Responses
(Solid Wood Machining Forum)
This worked for me. Grind your knives at 23 degrees. One angle - just 23 degrees. I don't know why, but it got rid of tear out and chip out on our maple.



Sometimes you need to play around with angle. I found out in the past that not all woods are dried the same, so it might give you some problems. Not all mills dry the same, so there goes that chart everyone follows. I grind at 25 and it works for me. Look at where your tear out is - is it where you have funky grain patterns and it's not straight? That will come into play, too.


My opinion is that four knives in the cut will cut this down a bunch. I know that if you do not joint, that only one is doing the work, but the chips are smaller so the advance tearing is shorter and this means that you don't have it tearing out on the final face.


What hook angles do your cutterheads have? We have found that a 10 degree, or even a 5 degree hook, will result in a much more acceptable finish on maple. There is a larger horsepower draw from the lower hook angle; 30% more horsepower is needed to run a head with a 12 degree hook than one with 20 degrees.

Hard maple is tougher to machine than soft maple. Hard maple varies dramatically depending on where it was harvested.



There are a few things to consider about running maple compared to oak.

The moisture content is important. Dry maple will tear out more. If you are running maple at 6% or so then a 10 degree or 5 degree hook head will help. If the maple is 8% or a little higher then a normal 12 degree hook head should work. If the wood was dried too fast and not conditioned, then a hook angle change may be necessary. The direction that the wood is fed into the moulder, grain direction, can cause more problems.

The thing I have found works the very best is to use a shear cut corrugated cutter head. We have used them for years doing both straight and profile knives. It requires a different style of tool rest for the grinder is all. The shear action greatly reduces the tearing of the wood and reduces the extra horse power requirements that are seen with non-shear heads.

Dave Rankin, forum technical advisor



Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Moldings

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining: General

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining: Setup and Maintenance

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining: Tooling

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining: Tool Grinding

  • KnowledgeBase: Woodworking Miscellaneous




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2009 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    RR4 Box 265A
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB













  •   Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article