Recreating the Look of Rough-Sawn Lumber

      Finding or creating rough-sawn lumber for rustic cabinetry. August 31, 2009

Question
I'm looking to recreate a door style that the stiles and rails looked like they were out of a rough mill. Does anyone know how this look is accomplished? Only the face of the door had the marks and they varied in spacing and length. Any help would be appreciated.

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor Z:
I suggest you hire a local cabinetmaker.



From the original questioner:
I actually do work in a fairly large cabinet company. I'm a Powermat operator that was asked how to do this by one of our engineers.


From contributor B:
Mills rough out lumber on either a circular saw or a bandsaw. Those two cutting methods yield different patterns. If you want to recreate that look, mill all the lumber at least 1/4" over-thickness. Do all the joinery. Then bandsaw or circular saw the faces off with a very coarse rip blade. Then assemble. To recreate the uneven spacing, feed the material manually. One of the problems you may have is when they rough mill they are flying through that stuff so the spaces between mill marks are very large. This will be difficult to duplicate.


From contributor C:
We once ran a couple thousand feet of rough saw oak flooring. I took a 24" steel crosscut saw blade, bent two teeth over with a hammer. Then I mounted said blade on a spindle sander. After rough planing and ripping, we ran the blanks under this blade. We varied the speed of the feeder and the fence set up allowed us to vary the position in relation the arbor. It was four different widths. Next, the blanks were molded with only .5mm taken off the face to remove some of the roughness. Lastly, the flooring was run through a combination of pump drum and wolf head sander. As I instructed, the owner stained the lain floor as dark as he could get it, then sanded all off the "high" spots. Then he stained a lighter color prior to topcoating. It made a beautiful job.


From contributor R:
You can s1s to get a consistent thickness, then s3s final. Or if your stock is heavy/thick enough gang saw or re-saw then s3s.


From contributor Z:
I always was under the impression that if you want the look of rough milled lumber then you use rough milled lumber. Is this too simple to understand? I've done it and believe it or not it works. Use s1s lumber.


From contributor F:
Ii know this may sound strange but Iíve seen some flooring enhanced by sand blasting. It gives the look of weathered lumber. If you do try this make sure youíre outside - sand will destroy machinery.


From contributor G:
A trick we used while building outdoor rustic furniture. Run your stock backwards against the bandsaw blade at a 15 degree angle. It leaves a rough machined type look that would match the rough stock surfaces on freshly machined areas.



Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking: General

  • KnowledgeBase: Lumber and Plywood

  • KnowledgeBase: Lumber & Plywood: Buying

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining: General


    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2014 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB











  • WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers


      Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article