Today's
Sponsors:


Finish Systems

Firth Maple Products

FORDAQ

FormWood Industries

Freeborn Tool Company

Fuhr International

Fuji Spray

Gabbiani Machine

Gary M. Katz

Global Hardwood Flooring

Glue Machinery Corporation

Goby Walnut Products

Graco, Inc.

Granite Road

Grayson Ferguson Woodworking Inc.

Great Lakes Kiln Drying Association

GreCon

GUHDO

Hanson and Leja Lumber Company

Hardwood Council

Hardwood Store of N.C. Inc.

Heartwoods, LLC

Her-Saf

Hermance Machine Company

High Point Grinding - Total Saw Solutions

Historical Plus Wood

CNCROUTERSTORE.com

CNT Motion Systems

Colonial Saw

Construction Programs and Results

Cook's Saw Mfg.

COOLwoodworkingstuff.com

Country Saw & Knife, Inc.

Courmatt International Inc.

CP Adhesives

CSH Custom Service Hardware Inc.

CTS Manufacturing Inc.

CustomMade.com

Cutlist Plus

D.S. Brown Machinery

Dancer Lumber

Delle Vedove USA, Inc.

Delmac Machinery Group

Delta

Denray Machine

DeVilbiss

Dispoz-A-Blade

Diversi-Tech

DMC

DODDS

Don Hall & Associates

Donald Dean and Sons

Durable Wood Products

E.W. Tooling Inc.

Eagle Machinery and Repair Co.

ECabinet Systems

Edge-It Edgebanding

Edwards Wood Products

Electrophysics

Elias Woodwork & Manufacturing

Elkom North America

Emerald Hardwood Floors

Endeavor Hardwoods

EnRoute WOOD

ETemplate Digital Measuring

ETK International

EX-FACTORY

Excel Dowel and Wood Products Inc.

Extrema Machinery

ez-Router

FastCap




Salt pastes and PEG       Polyethylene glycol is high-priced, but the alternatives for stabilizing green wood are few. 1998.

by Professor Gene Wengert

Q.
I have a question about the treatment of green wood to prevent it from splitting and expanding while it dries out. I have heard that there is a chemical called polyethylene glycol that treats wood for this explicit purpose, but it is highly overpriced. Is there anything else out there that I can use to treat green wood that is not so highly priced?

A.
Nothing else that I know of, although a salt paste has been used at times, but the salt is very corrosive. See USDA Agriculture Handbook No. 528 for more information.

Professor Gene Wengert is Extension Specialist in Wood Processing at the Department of Forestry, University of Wisconsin-Madison.

Click on Wood Doctor Archives to peruse past answers.

If you would like to obtain a copy of "The Wood Doctor's Rx", visit www.fdmbookstore.bigstep.com/ for more information.



The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment).

Comment from contributor A:
Drying walnut gunstock blanks by immersing in salt boxes worked well for one firearms manufacturer until the salt bled out of the stocks after the finish was applied.



Comment from contributor H:
I have had good success with latex paint on log ends. I purchase mismatched latex paint at the big box lumber place for a couple bucks a gallon and a throw-away cheap bristle brush. Do not spare the paint - wait 30 mintues, another coat, next day two more coats. During warm season you will actually see the paint bubble from the moisture escaping at the log end. Use various colors to denote specie, location of harvest or time of year cut. The latex lets moisture out at a rather controlled rate and the log end does not check or at least not as badly. I have had oak, pine, walnut that checked only an inch or two. The secret is to - when the log hits the ground and is cut to length - immediately start doing the painting. Checks start developing within 30 mintures in warm weather (above freezing!).

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Primary Processing: Air Drying Lumber

  • KnowledgeBase: Wood Engineering: General

  • KnowledgeBase: Wood Engineering: Wood Properties

  • KnowledgeBase: Woodworking Miscellaneous: Woodworking

  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2009 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    RR4 Box 265A
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB













  •   Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article