Sanding Shaker Door Edges
Question (WOODWEB Member) :
From contributor U:
Stiles have a machined edge off the moulder (or planer) and the ends get bumped on the sander. We have our jump saw stop calibrated 0.025" long and the rails get trimmed to exact size during the cope. The overall height comes out more or less dead on (even across multiple operators) after end sanding. Ditto solid slab drawer faces.
From contributor Z:
We use a tiny round over bit and go over all the doors. A small radius provides a better edge for finishing and is more forgiving to bumps, especially on white lacquered doors. Except for some architectural purists, the client will never notice the small radius and will not complain later of finishing not sticking to a sharp edge.
From contributor K:
I use a no-file laminate trimmer bit by Amana tool. It works great.
From contributor R:
We have pretty much gone to square door edges, regardless of style. We haven't profiled a door/drawer front edge in three years. Prior to that we profiled every single piece that went out the door. Tastes change I guess. I like the square edges. We ease them slightly front and back with the orbital sander during final sanding. As stated, helps finish wrap the corner.
During final sanding we turn the random orbit down to a crawl and knock the sharp edge off.
From contributor U:
We ease the edges as well, by hand or with a small router bit depending on the customer (since we sell doors to other shops who have their own preferences). I think that the original question was on whether and how to put a finished surface around the four sides of the door.
A typical shape/sand would need an oversized door and trim to final dimension. We just build the width to exact size by controlling the rail length and stile width. The glue joint ends get bump sanded and we have "dwell time" marks on the edge sander to act as a guide. The wider the part, the longer it stays in contact. So a 12" wide door might get two seconds, while a 24" wide door might get four seconds. We also flip the door and bump again on each end to average out any inconsistency. It has been surprisingly accurate and a spot check on the first few parts helps to tweak for different wood species density.
Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?