Tuning Up a Blade Sharpener
If a blade isn't quite cutting it, the problem may be your sharpening setup. January 27, 2007
Has anyone had experience cutting extremely dry western red cedar? I've tried new blades with 10 degree hook and 21 thousand set as well as 12.5 degree hook and 28 thousand set. So far, two paces per blade. Cant is 16 inches square X 19 feet. Would appreciate any advice.
(Sawing and Drying Forum)
From contributor A:
Where are you getting your blades from? In June I cut 10,000 LF of western red cedar that was dry. I did notice that the blades did not last as long as they used to. It was from the sharpener not being set up like it was supposed to be. I sharpen and set my own blades. I also tried 12.5 hook angle, and 6 hook angle.
From contributor J:
Thanks for your response. I am using Monksfrusker blades. My sharpener is made by Wood-Mizer. I gave it a good cleaning and checked all adjustments. I'm now sharpening to a 9 degree hook angle and have the set at 24 thousandths. I'm now getting a couple hundred board foot per blade. I'm satisfied with that. I am going to reduce my set a little more, though, to try and reduce the amount of loose sawdust on the boards.
From contributor A:
We both use the same blades and have the same sharpener. Don't let the stone on the sharpener get too small. I learned that this was the cause of the problems. I also made my own cams for the blade sharpener. I always set .020-.022 before I grind.
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