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Waterbased Finish Schedule for a Cherry Kitchen
Question
With all this new technology, is there a good start to finish water schedule? I have also tried transtint dyes. Should I spray the dyes and not wipe or should I spray and wipe? A full schedule that you are currently using with water would be greatly appreciated. Forum Responses
1.) Sand to 220
 Click here for full size image From contributor O: Nice work! Which Fuhr products do you use for seal coat and finish? Also, do you use the same for glaze? Which color stains did you use for that great looking door? From contributor B: I used the following: 360 or 365 sanding sealer for all my wash coats and seal coats.
From contributor D: I have done the waterbourne over oil stains with a shellac tie coat, but you can get crazing with some waterbases (Fuhr) over shellac. You said you would like to use waterbased, but if you’re open to solvent based please read how simple a good stain/glaze finish can be. Regarding the sample door photo and finish schedule – it’s way too complicated for anything outside of a small project. We just finished a kitchen this week with solvent based finishes. This is only six steps and most likely more durable than waterbased topcoats. 1. Sand 120- you can sand plywood to 150 if your concerned about hardwood and plywood exactly matching.
From contributor B: Your right solvent can be done quicker and with less steps, no doubt. I use to use Gemini and SW solvents myself. I'm in Atlanta area and they are readily available. However, I made the switch this year to water because my spray schedule is not as demanding as it was three years ago and the desire for a "safer" product was also a major consideration. I also have a quickie finish process as well using Fuhr: (I usually use this process for my kitchens under 25-30K). Sand to 220 wood 320 ply.
By the way the door sample and process used in the image was for a 64K kitchen in The Country Club of the South outside Atlanta, GA - not too small.
From contributor L: To contributor B: Where do you get your Fuhr products? And how about the sprayable glaze product - is it ready to spray or do you still have to reduce it somewhat? From contributor B: I bought all my Fuhr directly from them. I ordered about $800 worth of product to come up with in-house color sample selections. I ordered gallons of their sanding sealer, topcoat in three sheens, white pigmented lacquer in two sheens, pints of 9 dye stains, 9 spray and wipe, and 4 spray glazes (all pre-selected as to colors that seem to be liked in my area). I then spent three days spraying samples on 3x6 cherry and maple blocks. This gave a great indication as to what dye stain/wipestain/glaze combinations looked and worked best. Very time consuming but a great help in achieving a baseline for selecting a stain color product line. I highly recommend doing this. I cut the spray glaze about 10% to make it last a little longer when doing the samples (pint). However, I didn’t need to when production started.
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