Hello

So I sprayed cv over a stained surface(wiping stain). the surface was vertical and since it was a selfsealing coat over open grain wood I reduced with about 30% reducer.

usually I spray at around 70 degree but today was well over 80. so I got some subtle run. they have almost no build. its mostly the sheen that makes them visible.

I may sound uncommon but its the first time I run into this issue. I read about card scrapper, chisel, razor blade but since they have no build will scuff sanding to even sheen and applying a second coat make them disapear. I mean its no different than spraying a blotch prone wood and getting area of different sheen until its all even.

oh and last it seems like the stain is ok but could it had made the stain lift and sag too? assuming the stain was well wiped after application. I saw it once with brush poly the stain guy made a dirty wipe stains and brushed poly so thick that ended up in poly AND the stain sagging.

did anyone one ever had this happen to them given the stain was well wiped and the CV and stain are same system

If your sag/run is visible with not much film build on the rest of the substrate then scuff as normal with 320/400 and reapply your next coat. At this point if your still seeing a sag or run after it dries then careful cut the sag/run out with a single edge razor blade.... scuff as normal and apply your topcoat... done... If you have very low film build on your first coat/seal coat i normally do not try to sand out a sag or run... I'd rather have some room to work with than to end up burning through and damaging my stain color/ surface area.

shane

fortunatly there is almost no build since it was a thinned seal coat of CV. the cv was thinned with 30% reducer/retarder and it was over 80 hot so I suppose these are the culprits.

anyways its only the sheen that makes these sags visible. if I sand to an even sheen everywhere will the next full coat hide them even if cv does ot burn in like nitro

a light scuff and another coat should give you a better idea of what your looking at... Yes

since pictures are worth a thousand words here are some.

right now I have a sealer coat and a topcoat sprayed.

only one coat to go

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Pascal... Those should clear themselves up with a careful sand and recoat.... if you still see them another good scuff and recoat will take care of them but you are getting in the territory of a filled finish... so if your trying to have an open pore finish you may be better off grinding the face down and starting over IMO

thanks shane since I have already sprayed 2 coats of high solid cv I have enough material to try and scuff sand them level with rest.

I will shoot the last coat after

Pascal
What type of CV are you using?
Do you thin it?
Looks to me that coating is pretty thin
By the way the sags looks

Normally for sags like that I scrape with a razor blade til I can't feel it, then scuff it with 320 and shoot again.

30% is a lot of thinner. But we don't know what system you are spraying from. HVLP might need to be that thin. AAA I only thin it 2.5% with some medium speed reducer. If I don't I can get some trapped air bubbles in warmer weather. MLC Krystal is what I usually shoot out of a Kremlin.

I have sanded a lot and was able to hide them almost 95%. you have to know where to look to see them!

I will thin less my seal coat next time. got caught by the fact that I am used to hvlp and now using a 15:1 AAA wich can atomize the cv without thinning.

I also used to thin a lot because I would get pinholes or solvent pop on oen grain wood. by a pure luck I have noticed that if a do a grain popping with a damp rag and let dry before shooting the first coat I get a lot less bubbles.

I will probable just thin 5% first coat next time

oh forgot to show some pics since youve been helpfull.

first one the front. I wont lie there has been some sand through but hid them well with Qtips and dye concentrate.

second one is me trying to get most of sheen to check for runs

last one is some finished boxes ;) dont mind the cardboard inside I prefinish the inside before assembly and use it to protect the bottom

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