In a recent discussion at WOODWEB's Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum, the topic covered what tools are needed by installers. Many tools were mentioned, and we reviewed them, eliminated the duplicates, and created a categorized master list of the installation tools. The entire discussion follows the list below -- The Staff at WOODWEB
POWER TOOLS
Belt sander
Jigsaw
Miter saw
Small router
portable tablesaw
A 1/2" vsr dual speed/hammerdrill (Milwaukee) with a box of assorted tapcon screws, lead anchors
power planer
hot-melt glue gun
circular saw
angle grinder
Makita 12v impact driver
DRILLS AND ACCESSORIES
18 volt or bigger cordless drills
battery angle drills
drill bits
countersinks
screw bits
pilot bits
holster for the screw gun
Hole saws and spade bits
Cordless saw that uses same batteries as your drill
magnetic extension
Masonry bits
Screw tip holders
Quick change hex shank bits and holder
AIR TOOLS
Small portable air compressor
18 gauge brad gun that shoots at least up to 2" brads
23 gauge pin nailer
air hose repair kit
extra air nails
monster hook for the nail gun
25' air hose
compressed air bottle
HAND TOOLS
Fold out allen wrenches
Fold out Torx bits
Drill bit case
Pencils
Pencil sharpener
1 1/2" stiff putty knife
channel locks
needle nosed pliers
linesman nippers
CLAMPS
4" C clamps
18" to 24" bar clamps
spring clamps
Small 9-ply pieces to use for clamp blocks
8) 8" clamps
Jorgenson cabinet clamps
Wetzler F-clamps
FASTENERS
screws - 1", 1.1/4", 1.5/8", 2", 2.1/2" and 3"
Anchors, mollies, etc.
Asst. nails - finish - common
5 gallon buckets with the stacking trays
Tapcon screws and ez-anchors
HARDWARE
"weird" hardware items (little L brackets for fastening frig end panels)
miscellaneous spare hinges/slides
Extra 8-32 and 4mm screws for drawer pulls
Clear nylon door bumpers
shelf supports
shelf pins
angle brackets
washers
FINISH / TOUCH-UP
Shop Vac
cordless vac
color nail filler putty or sticks
Screw caps, different colors
toothpicks
masking tape
double sided tape
blue low tack tape
Some sort of cleaner
sandpaper
electric iron
touch up kit - solvent, stain, rags, sandpaper, 3m pads, various fillers, can spray lacquer
mineral spirits and lacquer thinner
409 or Fantastik
paper towels and/or rags
Drop cloths
CAULKING / ADHESIVES / GLUE
caulking gun
wood glue (white - yellow)
silicone
5 minute epoxy
Colorflex caulking
dap 30 white caulking
Homax caulking tools
3m contact adhesive
Construction adhesive
ELECTRICAL
Extension cords
Electrical boxes
remodel boxes
wire nuts
10-3 wire, 12-3 wire
Basic electrical kit - wire nuts, wire stripper, electrical tape, circuit tester, voltmeter.
three-way plug adaptor
Good 6-way with power surge
SUPPORTS / LADDERS / MATERIAL HANDLING
Chop saw table with end supports
2 wheel dolly with stretch tie downs and bungee cords
folding horses
folding table
cabinet hoist
2' and 6' ladders
Folding saw horses
LAYOUT
small layout jigs
laser jamb level
7' straight edge and string line
2' 4' and 8 ' levels
Shop-made blank jigs for locating door pulls
9-ply pieces 10 x 10 to make hardware jigs for locating holes on doors and drawers
MISCELLANEOUS
shims
radio
Flashlight
Razor blades
WD40
floodlights
Ramset for nailing to concrete
8' boards to use for blocking
PAPERWORK / ADMINISTRATION
Cabinet plans (plan and elevation views)
List of appliances with cut in sheets
Pad of paper
Cell phone
and don't forget ..... roll of TP
Question
I have a question for the veterans out there. I'm new to the cabinet installation field and would like some advice on what tools, hardware, and fasteners to include in my installation kit. I'm interested in learning what the must have stuff is, not including power tools, which I have covered. I know that there is a wide variety of installation situations, but I'm looking for guidance that will help me in most situations. Thanks for the help.
Forum Responses
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
Belt sander
At least 1 but best to have 2 18 volt or bigger cordless drills
Jigsaw
At least one pair of 4" C clamps and a pair of 18" to 24" bar clamps - not a must but can come in handy
A good level
Miter saw
Small router to cut outlets
Small portable air compressor
18 gauge brad gun that shoots at least up to 2" brads
23 gauge pin nailer is best for crown moldings
As for screws, make yourself a tray bin and carry 1", 1.1/4", 1.5/8", 2", 2.1/2" and 3". I use mostly 2 1/2" and 1 5/8, but it's nice to have the other sizes on hand.
Don't forget the wood glue and color nail filler putty or sticks and a caulking gun and silicone. Always have white and clear and brown with you, dead blow hammer or rubber mallet, shims. You wont need it on every job, but it's nice to have a portable tablesaw along. And the #1 most important tool is a good radio.
I have two 5 gallon buckets with the stacking trays in which I keep screws, screw bits, pilot bits, some finish nails - all fastening items go in these buckets.
I keep a 16" wide, 32" long, 24" deep tool box with color putty, electric iron (for steaming out dents), screw caps, "weird" hardware items that can save the day (little L brackets for fastening Frig end panels), miscellaneous spare hinges/slides, small layout jigs, air hose repair kit, extra air nails.
One of those bucket bosses, with all the hand tools I might need - files, block plane, scribes, WD40, pliers, wire cutters, screw drivers, crescent wrench, vise grips, spring clamps, sharpening stone, pry bar...
Between the two buckets, the tool box and the bucket boss, I have about 95% of anything I need. I keep larger quantities in the van, but my goal is not to have to make the trip unless I have to (especially if it's 3 stories down).
A small compressor that can be moved easily. And some pin and nail guns. Another tackle box to carry the nails.
A set of folding horses, a folding table. I made my own based on a design that wallpaper hangers used.
Drop clothes - a must.
A portable canister vacuum (has detachable upright carpet brush vac).
A couple floodlights, and some extension cords.
A sliding/compound miter saw.
At some point, a gang box to lock up your stuff on a job site.
This all stacks up in the back of a truck, right? Remember, folding horses, table, etc.
A ladder or two, 4' 6'
Levels (laser for big jobs is nice).
Ramset for nailing to concrete.
A 1/2" vsr dual speed/hammerdrill (Milwaukee) with a box of assorted tapcon screws, lead anchors, etc.
Power tools I never go to jobsite without:
battery drill
belt sander
power planer
jigsaw
small router (Porter Cable installers kit, 3 bases)
small tablesaw (a small shopvac can hook up to these to keep dust down)
A good quality, light weight 10" (minimum) chop saw for the trim moldings.
Heavy duty power strip.
90% of my installs are face frame. I bought some Jorgenson cabinet clamps and I love them now that I know how to make them work well. The guide bushing helps to keep the bit going straight - no more puffed faces. The bushing only accepts 1/8" bits so you may have to re-drill with a larger size.
I then use a combination drill countersink that fits in the clamp hole, such as Fuller or Instybit, etc. Lubricating your screws makes a big difference.
I also have some Wetzler F-clamps. These are the best - forget about the others. You have to get these from the manufacturer in Long Island City, NY.
A sharp hand saw can do things nothing else can.
I never see laminate countertops anymore, only stone.
I do use my belt sander from time to time, especially when fitting solid surface. Some of those vanity tops will eat $3 jigsaw blades like candy. I think some cabinet assemblers get paid by the staple.
Can't beat a table saw for ripping accurate fillers. When it comes to crown mouldings, you need a good mitre saw. I rarely nail mouldings anymore. The hot melt polyurethanes are great.
My last important tool is a good relationship with the various kitchen designers and a correct plan.
In the truck:
Masonry bits and screws
Structural epoxy
Plenty of nails and screws
Routers, planers, ramset, cabinet lift, iron, 3m contact adhesive, lacquer thinner, compressed air bottle, touchup kit, various color putties, rags, dap 30 white caulking, Homax caulking tools, 2 x 4's for shims.
Then, there is the general architectural millwork installer that puts in anything anywhere. That's where the long list of tools comes in. High quality install is the key. In over 22 years, I've worked side by side with hundreds of these guys, They all basically have a pickup truck, with much of what was mentioned in the other posts. If you want to work on half million dollar plus home remodels, downtown commercial jobs, or go to a ski resort and work on jobs for the summer, you will have to pack a truck full of tools and know how to use them to make the contractor a believer.
Some tools not mentioned: A wormdrive circular saw with a stout fine tooth blade. Run this machine backwards to downcut on countertops. Walk the dog several times over anyone using a jigsaw scribing counters. Belt sand to clean up. On cutting entrance doors, set the blade height for scoring, score door edge then top cut by going backwards, then drop blade, finish cutting forward; you are ready to kiss it with the belt sander, baby.
For crown molding cope joints, I have a small table saw for hogging out copes, miter saw (and sometimes I take a small bandsaw on jobsites that have over 1000 feet of crown), and sanding block. I do use jigsaw and belt sander sometimes, but that is a slower method.
Makita table saw
Makita bench top planner
Small Porter Cable saw
Bosch jig saw
16" Hitachi Chop saw with crown clamps
4 Makita battery drills
2 Makita battery angle drills
Milwalkie power drill
Hitachi concrete drill
Porter Cable belt sander
Porter Cable router (used to cut slight rabbit in rough top for under counter type sinks)
Dremel tool with assortment of bits and cutoff wheels
Nail gun with assortment of nails
Air compressor (unless you are using one of the new battery airless guns, which I highly recommend)
Electrical box with remodel boxes, wire nuts, electrical tape, 10-3 wire, 12-3 wire, electrical pliers, etc.
Large partitioned box with large assortment of screws, shelf pins, angle brackets, washers, 5 mm screws, concrete sleeves.
Hand tool box:
Scribe compass
Angle finders
Fold out allen wrenches
Fold out Torx bits
Drill bit case
Small pry bar
Pencils
Pencil sharpener
Razor blade knife
1 1/2" stiff putty knife
Assortment of screw tips
Screw tip holders
Assortment of carbide tipped countersink bits
Assortment of screw drivers and Blum driver
1/4" 1/2" 3/4" and 1" chisels
Medium pry bar
2) 6" adj wrenches
Assortment of pliers, channel locks, needle nosed, linesman, nippers
Router wrenches
Hammer
Large pry bar
Coping saw
Japanese saw (small)
8" engineers level (Stabilla)
Drywall saw
Square
2' 4' and 8 ' levels
2' and 6' ladders
Folding saw horses
Chop saw table with end supports
Several power cords
Good 6-way with power surge
25' air hose
8) 8" clamps
Large coffee can full of shims
9-ply pieces 10 x 10 to make hardware jigs for locating holes on doors and drawers
Some 8' boards to use for blocking, etc.
Small 9-ply pieces to use for clamp blocks
Yellow glue
2 gallon shop vac (more power than cordless and easier to go up and down ladder with)
Cabinet plans (plan and elevation views)
List of appliances with cut in sheets
Pad of paper to write down what you forgot and need for the next day so you can finish
Cell phone (so you can call the plumber and ask why the gas line is where the refer goes; call the electrician and ask where the lines for the in cabinet lighting are; call the GC and ask why the window location was changed and you weren't informed)
Portfolio
Comment from contributor C:
I have only been doing this cabinet thing for about a year now, but my recently purchased 12 ft. box truck (with lift gate) makes life easy, especially if I have to demo an old kitchen.
I'm surprised that none of you pros mentioned the Fein Multimaster. Great for cutting back base trim and a number of other things that no other tool I've found could do.
By the way, I am not a cabinetmaker, but an installer, so I often have to do onsite fabrication for the semi-custom cabinets I'm installing. Would'nt leave home without my Senco Senclamp.
- Found the "3rd hand" jacks for holding uppers is very useful, especially if working alone.
- Good set of scribes, and I don't mean the cheap compass type (look at Hafele or Woodcraft).
- Impact wrench Makita 12v.
- Haven't found lasers to be that accurate for cabinetwork. Double check, because often in large rooms, they have an error of up to 3/16". Good for general layout and tolerances.
- Porter Cable 4 1/2" worm drive is very useful and lighter.
- Festool jigsaw with downcutting blades are handy.
- Festool vacuum system also handy for working in environments where dust can be a problem.
- Fein multi tool has been great for trimming outlets, etc., sanding.
- Then there is the good old belt sander. Why not add to the weight? I rarely use one, but then again it's always the tool I leave behind that is most needed!
- Sense of humor.
Also, there hasn’t been much mention of a laminate trimmer. Sometimes this is very handy when dealing with a large u-shaped top between walls. My full sized router just won't get close enough to the walls. I really like the cordless circular saw as well. I have tried many methods of cutting out laminate, and nothing beats the cordless. Just slide a strip of ply or particle board under the cut line to avoid ruining a good blade on nail heads. Set the saw for a shallow cut, and enjoy the speed and ease.
The basic list:
several 4' x 15' "runner" drop cloths
4' double sided ladder - great for tight spots like closets, tall enough for almost anything not needing a scaffold and strong enough for an elephant to work on the top step.
75' 10 ga. powercord with 3 ganged 4" x 4" elec. boxes housing 5 duplex receptacles and GFCI protection wired in as a separate block. I can plug everything I need into this. I have only rarely used all ten plugs at once and have never needed more.
500w work light on a good tall stand
"miner's" headlamp - much more useful than a flashlight (which I also carry)
folding sawhorses.
two 14.4v cordless drills
one 14.4v impact driver
three chargers, eight batteries
twist bits, long twist bits, spade bits, vix bits, holesaws, extra driver tips
sliding miter saw
portable table saw
4.5" angle grinder. i use 24 grit, period. for grinding, fitting, or coping, one size fits all. i also carry a diamond blade for the grinder for those odd circumstances. (and to fuel the discussion, I almost never use my belt sander; though I do carry one I don't consider it essential)
jigsaw
1.5 hp compressor, hoses and hose repair kit
senco trim gun and pinner
misc. hand tools:
16 oz. and 20 oz. hammers
nail sets
two "wonderbars"
two japanese spoon-end pry bars
low angle block plane
chisels and sharpening stone
screwdrivers
8" adjustable wrench
channelocks
diagonal cut pliers
end cut pliers
linesmen pliers
needle-nose pliers
small vice grip
torpedo through 6'6" level
speedsquare
framing square
tape measure
chalk line
dryline
razor knives
school compass scribe
.7 x 4mm die for hardware screws
lots of pencils
blue painters tape (2" wide)
assorted screws 1.25" - 3"
Some combination of the above list ends up on every job. I always carry, on the truck, in addition to the above:
sawzall, holehawg, 1/2" elec drill, rotary hammer, small electric (hand) planer, door planer and doorbucks, right angle battery drills, several routers and laminate trimmers w/ an assortment of bits, belt sander, ramset, omer micro pinner, fein multi tool w/ asst, blades and sanding heads, a myriad of misc. small handtools, sandpaper, glue, extra cords, hoses, pins, etc.
I work silent, without a radio. On crewed jobs or where other trades are there, several are usually blaring on different stations and frequently in multiple languages. I love music and intelligent talk radio but find that I concentrate better without it. Plus, clients seem to prefer it less cacophonous.
