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My Second Kitchen

Listing #3245   Listed on: 04/13/2011

Company Name: Peter Kern Custom Carpentry

Contact Name:   Peter Kern
Alder Kitchen with Chestnut stain and antique glaze on the raised panels. Looks a lot like my first kitchen. When the h/o started looking at kitchens I gave him the link to my first kitchen in the project gallery and he said that was pretty much what he was thinking. The only thing I "outsourced" was milling the crown. I also dressed up a little built in cabinet they had right off the kitchen. The pantry has two big pullouts on the top that make the depth of the cabinet more useful. I don't have a good picture of that but I threw in one before the installation where you can kind of see it. This is completely "custom" with the cabinets on the left 1.125" deeper than those on the right so the window cabinets would be centered on the window. The h/o and I are both pleased with how it has turned out.

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Kitchen and bar

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Pantry and Fridge Cabinets. We put the big pullouts on top of the pantry, but not on the fridge incase there was something big they wanted to put up there. Made the mistake of letting my wife see the pullouts above the pantry and now there is a new item on the list of things that I need to do at home.

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Hopefully it is hard to tell, but the kitchen had a gigantic dip of about 1.5

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Picture that shows the pullouts on the pantry

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Built in before

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This is the little built-in that I dressed up. This picture is before I finished trimming out the doors and the tile.

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Built-in with beveled glass

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Drawers w/ undermount soft close slides

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Pullouts dovetail w/ soft close undermount slides

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Pantry - 30

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Pantry Pullout making 28

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Other pullout in pantry

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Pantry bottom with pullouts

Viewer Comments:

Posted By: Ben     [04/13/2011]
To solve the crown problem I always use a two piece crown. I start with an inverted 3/4" furniture base (w/a profiled edge) turned upside down. That goes parallel to the tops of the cabinets. Then the crown goes against that piece, I usually leave about 1.5" of frieze showing to allow the crown to follow the ceiling line and not ruin the relationship your eye has to the non level line between the two parts.

Posted By: brandon collins     [04/14/2011]
Totally agree with Ben. I either leave a gap or take the cornice down 50mm so you can keep it straight relative to the cabinet doors. Not a fan of the pull-outs that high up though. And surely a cupboard would be a better use of the space. The finish looks great though nice job. Just one thing on the dresser the draw looks out of proportion - was there a reason why it was that deep?

Posted By: Peter Kern     [04/14/2011]
I may try that with the crown next time. I assume you make the cabinets 1.5" + the base profile shorter to do that. The cabinet to the side of the microwave is 2" less (12") than the microwave cab (14") to allow the crown to dead end into the side of the cabinet. The microwave specs said that 14" was the deepest that cabinet could be so would you just make the 12" cab 11 1/4" to account for the extra build out of the base board on there, or only do it on the ones that go to the ceiling? By the time to take away 3/4 for the ff and 3/4 for the back you've only got 9.5 for a shelf.
Brandon - I disagree and unfortunately so does my wife about the usefulness of pullouts on the pantry. That is a thirty inch deep cabinet that starts 6' off the ground. At the most, you may be able to use half of it with out using a step ladder. We have a cabinet 30x36 over our fridge and the whole back half is wasted or stuff gets back there and goes bad. I have made the entire depth of the cabinet usable one half at a time. the pullouts are perfect for bags of chips, cereal boxes, etc. Maybe you just can't tell from the picture. I will take one of it in use in next week and get it on here, but there is no way just a standard cupboard would be a better use unless you were storing something that was 30" deep.
I agree the drawer is large. I did not design the cabinet in 1970 or whenever it was built. I just took what was there and made it match the kitchen. I guess in hind sight I could have made one drawer front that looked like two skinny ones, but the way the cabinet was built, modifying it to re-size a drawer would have easily doubled the cost of the work I did to it. I guess to answer your question, the reason why it is that deep is because it is the same drawer that was on there with a new drawer front. Thanks for your comments, especially the finish comment. I have kind of felt that the way I beat stock cabinets is my ability to make a cabinet fit whatever size and be able to make some random cabinet in a different room match the others I just did, but the way they beat me is by having a perfect finish perfectly applied. So getting a compliment on finish makes me feel better about the quality of my product. Thanks,

Posted By: brandon collins     [04/15/2011]
Peter I'd like to see the pull outs in action, will be making a new kitchen at home (which would have a cabinet over our American style fridge) in the next few months and trying new things in my own kitchen would give me a better understanding of how it works when you sell it to a customer. With regards to finish i use Kremlin Airless systems this gives a gun finish with out the need to wirewool back or wax. Also a little tip whenever you can always go for a matt finish with a high build lacquer it gives more depth to the clear coat and looks better quality. I have seen many a piece of average furniture been transformed by a good finish.

Posted By: Peter Kern     [04/23/2011]
Hello there,
I added some pictures with the pullouts above the pantry.

Posted By: brandon collins     [04/28/2011]
I see what you mean they really do make sense now. The only thing is now you need a step to come out of the bottom so my wife who is only 5'3" can reach them.

Posted By: Woody     [05/17/2011]
The finish looks great. Wonderful stain color. This is a nice kitchen.

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