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Rustic Alder Kitchen

Listing #4707   Listed on: 01/20/2016
Rustic alder kitchen I built. First full scale kitchen I've done. 3/4 prefinished ply boxes, soft close 35mm cup hinges, undermount, soft close blum drawer glides. I did every aspect of the project, from design to finish. I use Sher wood precat lacquers, stain and glazes. I have done other custom projects like bookshelves and bar areas, but first time to complete an entire kitchen. I've been woodworking 3 years, would like to start my own shop someday.

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curved island bar front.

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stone backsplash with undercabinet lighting. I did this as well.

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different angle

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side wall run

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built in decorative end panels

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curved bar front

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arched cabinet doors and fridge cabinet

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additional shot of arched cabinet doors.

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4 piece crown

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additional view

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Viewer Comments:

Posted By: Joel     [01/21/2016]
Very nice. Reminds me of a Wallace and Hinz Bar.

Posted By: Dennis Zongker     [01/21/2016]
Beautiful, is the first thing that popped into my head. After only three years of woodworking, just imagine how good you could be in ten years! Congratulations on a great job!

Posted By: Trevor T     [01/21/2016]
thank you Joel and Dennis. appreciate the kind words. when I was in high school/college I was really into drawing and graphic design, this is taking that a step (or ten) further and creating something functional and tangible as well as beautiful. I've looked at your postings as well, and it's obvious I still have a very long way to go. I just try to be a little better than I was before with every project, and over time I can see a big difference in my work. (some of the first things I did that I thought were so great I tend to cringe a little at now!) Any constructive criticism is definitely welcome, as this is what I really have a passion for in life, and love to continue learning better ways to do things.

Posted By: Josh Koschak     [01/21/2016]
Would you mind sharing your construction plans for the curved bar front?

Posted By: Trevor T     [01/21/2016]
Hi Josh, I started with a half wall, used 1x12 pine for the top/bottom plates. cut out the radius, it was a 12' radius, then screwed 2x4s along side the arc. I used 3.5" and 5.5" wide stock for the rails and stiles. I use pocket screws/glue for my face frames, so I laid out where my stiles would join with the top/bottom rails, then cut kerfs into the backside of the stiles, except for where the stiles would join, this way the joints would stay flush. I designed it with plenty of Raised panels along the front so that each panel didn't have to curve much to fit. Just made a slight bevel to the glue lines and hand sanded any ridge out. I was only concerned about one face, since the backside does not get seen, like a cabinet door would. I used a two piece base molding, a cove and then a Victorian style 4.5" base board. Instead of buying a piece of flex trim or having my molding supplier run me a piece with appropriate curve, I kerfed the back of the two moldings as well. I should have had them run me a piece, because I ended up having to kerf through the profile more than I wanted. So I used some solvent based Famowood filler and filled it three times to get it nice and smooth. upon finishing, if there were any color inconsistencies with the filler, I evened it out by spraying diluted stain over it. this project also used a black glaze, so I was able to use that to hide any color inconsistencies as well.

Posted By: Bryan C Parks     [02/08/2016]
To trever T...I love that Kitchen...congrats. I have been doing this for thirty years. It makes me happy that the trade is not one can top a custom Job. Well done. The only thing I would have done different is use grass hinges. I think they work alittle better with the soft close feature. Good luck!

Posted By: Trevor T     [02/09/2016]
Bryan C Parks- thank you for your kind comments. It means a lot coming from people that have been in the trade for that long. Gives me hope that I can do this for a living (someday!) as well. I will look into Grass hinges, I've heard of them before, so I will check them out. thanks again for your comments and tips!

Posted By: Alessio     [02/14/2016]
Amazing work. As a cabinetmaker with specialty in fininsing, if there's one thing I can suggest is stay away from precat. It looks just as good new, but over the years precat just doesn't have the strenght/body/chemical resistance to hold up like a post-cat, no matter how much the rep tries to tell you that it's just as good. I've refaced lots of kitchens (built by others) less than 7 years old because the finish was, for lack of a better word, finished. Other wise, beautiful job.

Posted By: Trevor T     [02/14/2016]
Thanks Allesio. I've been thinking about trying out the Mohawk post cat stuff. Do you have any experience with it?

Posted By: Alessio     [02/15/2016]
Trevor, No experience with mohawk. I use mostly two brands, Acroma Pro's Innovat (Conversion Varnish), and recently Gemini Coating's Conversion Varnish. Have had the good fortune to see some kitchens from about 8 years ago and they still look like the day I sprayed them, even the sink doors! The Gemini product is about 25% cheaper, you can use a catalyst that gives you 7 day pot-life vs 4-6hrs on the Innovat, and you can flip the parts same day, somewhat risky with the Innovat on a cold day. Also I would suggest a vinyl sealer for any kitchen and bathroom millwork.

Posted By: Larry     [07/10/2016]
Nice work. Learn how to make curved moldings. Curved casework always says something about the craftsman's desire to make it special.

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