A Wax Finish for Walnut Wall Panels
From contributor R:
In order for the posse to steer you in the correct direction, could you be a bit more specific on the job you're undertaking? What kind of stain, and how long has it been dry?
From the original questioner:
The panels have yet to be made but will be stained with a Mohawk type of wood wiping stain. I was planning on staining, putting down a wash coat of lacquer and letting dry for a couple of days. Then wax and use a machine buffer. Not quite sure how to get in all the corners with my method.
From contributor D:
I'm sure I'll get blasted for this, but... I've been doing this for a while now because it's so much easier. When I have to wax something, I use automotive wax. It's 110 times easier than conventional wood wax. Maguire's is what I use. You can do a whole car before removing, and buffing it out is effortless compared to old school waxes. That may help you on the large area issue. Without a filled finish, though, I'd go for one of the waxes that doesn't turn white because it'll probably get in the pores. I think there's one called Ice that's supposed to not whiten.
From contributor B:
I know one thing, there's no way I would do a job like that. Satin or flat Magnamax all the way. The wax will be a supreme headache to work with and get it even. Besides that, it doesn't hold up, and it attracts and holds dirt. You're already worried about getting into the corners. I say "forget about it."
From contributor C:
Nothing wrong with automotive waxes, if what is needed or desired is a gloss wax finish like a car. They still use standard waxes such as carnauba in them, they're just emulsified, which makes them easier to apply and use. As to getting into corners, you can use a standard palm sander with a piece of soft cloth attached to the pad - slower than the buffing machine but will work just fine as to end results. Lacquer's a good choice since you're not doing it on site - easy to repair and maintain. Personally I would stay away from the cat finishes, especially if this is a commercial job; lots of careless damages.
From contributor R:
Your reference to a wash coat of lacquer over the stain, followed by a waxing, sounds as if it could yield a pretty fine finish. A few things for you to ponder... once that wash coat of lacquer dries, it might be too rough for you to jump right into the waxing step. Have you considered a sealer coat that, when dry, could be sanded with say 280 paper? If you did that, the wash coat of lacquer you talked about would lay down nice and smooth. By doing it that way, you're applying your wax to an already smooth surface. As far as waxes go, there are as many waxes on the market as there are ways to make spaghetti sauce. One in particular I'd like you to try is Howards. It's a user-friendly beeswax, bottled in semi paste form and can be had at most hardware stores. With this wax, you can do a real large area before you buff it out, either by hand or machine, and the beauty is it won't turn white in the pores. It smells good too.
Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?