Accurate Resawing with the Bandsaw
Instead of setting the fence relative to the table, set it according to how the blade actually cuts. Gauge a line onto a stick of scrap wood, and cut alongside that line (freehand) until you're about halfway through the length of the piece. Make a couple of marks (pencil, tape, etc.) on the table to record the precise orientation of the scrap piece of wood, then set the fence angle to those marks.
From contributor B:
Blades wander - that is the nature of bandsaws. A better fence is a semicircle that allows the sawyer to compensate for blade wander and hold the cut to the line. Trying to use a flat fence will create a lot of waste.
From the original questioner:
Thanks, contributor J! That did the trick, or at least I know which direction to go. I've just learned that the Jet fence isn't worth a d@#$ and that I need a better one, or more adjustable one at least. Any recommendations?
From contributor W:
I have the same Jet 18" saw. There should have been a heavy duty steel bar that can be bolted to the fence. It works okay for the times I have needed to resaw (a rare event). There are two options - Rockler (I think) has an elegant resaw fence with the curved face, or make a tall point fence and clamp it to the table. In all cases, set the nearest point of the fence to be at or just in front of the cutting edge of the blade.
From contributor R:
A good technique for most re-saw work is to ditch the fence and guides altogether. Take your stock to the table saw and flipping the board to keep the same face fenced, kerf it top and bottom a comfortable depth, cut a pair for every piece the stock allows. This is very fast - much quicker than scribing lines. Then simply freehand the board through the bandsaw using the center of the kerf as a guide. As the bandsaw blade will naturally want to take the path of least resistance, it is also somewhat “self guiding” and the blade will not be prone to wander out the path at the bottom if pushed too hard or if it is a bit dull. I would also recommend a blade sold by Hiland Hardware called the Wood Slicer - it is the most free cutting and straight tracking blade I have found.
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From contributor O:
I agree completely with contributor J - it is your fence set up because of the drift. I just get to the end results a little different. Use whatever is best for you. I set up my fence then take a scrap board and run it through the saw as contributor J said, maybe halfway. Then look and see if the blade is tight against one side of the board, and if so, move the fence in the direction needed to center the blade in the cut. You should have an equal space on both sides, or as close as you can get. You should be able to do what you want with no problem.
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Comment from contributor A:
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