|
|
| Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article | Login | Become a Member | What's New | Site Map |
|
WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ... |
|
|
Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Adapting to an Oversize Table Saw Arbor Question
My question is the saw blade. The arbor is 1 1/8". I have had some trouble finding saw blades with an arbor hole that size. For the moment I had a blade bored to the size, but I get a lot of runout. It really needs to be factory machined. Forrest can do custom boring, but ouch on the price. Anyone run into this? Where do you get yours? Forum Responses
From the original questioner: Actually, it is belt driven, and I changed it from 3 phase to single (small shop). Thought about machining the arbor, tried to get it out, no luck without messing up the castings. So I'm looking for a saw blade and dado set. This is a Delta; can't believe no one has one out there. Nice saw. I'll go with Forrest if I have to. From contributor K: I have the same saw (Rockwell 12/14) and anyone that has spent any time on this saw knows what a great machine it is. I've had mine for 10 years and could never go back to anything as small as a 10" Unisaw. (It's a joke, guys). Now about your arbor. The earlier 12/14 had interchangeable arbors to accommodate the collection of blades a shop may have. The flange on the arbor should have 2 holes that are to be held with the original arbor nut wrench that came with the saw (one end of the wrench was for the arbor nut; the other, a spanner wrench). On the end of the arbor should be flats machined to accommodate an open end wrench to unscrew the arbor from the flange. Remember, this will be a left hand thread (unscrews the same direction the arbor nut does). The original manual shows several arbors - 1", 1 1/8", 1 1/4", in several lengths. Unfortunately they were not available when I bought my saw, but I had the ability to machine my own. Since then, Grizzly Imports has copied the 12/14 and offers a saw with interchangeable arbors and they appear to be the same ones as the 12/14. In fact they have come up on E-bay several times. Someone on E-bay had listed a 5/8" arbor (which the Rockwell 12/14 never had available) for the 12/14. Obviously these are made overseas. Sometime in the '70s they changed the 12/14 over to a straight 1" long arbor. The spanner end on the arbor wrench is also needed to unscrew the retaining ring to remove the inboard bearing.
From contributor R: Before doing anything drastic, contact RKO Saw and see what they may have for your needs. They are a custom saw shop and do an outstanding job. They may be able to deliver what you need without it costing too much more than an off-the-shelf price. I have found their prices to be very competitive. From the original questioner: Great! Where I could get one of those wrenches? It is a great saw. Should I have the arbor machined, get another, or use the 30mm as someone suggested (didn't think about metric)? From contributor K: You should have a parts list. Get it from acetoolrepair.com, go to Delta, table saws, 34-350. You'll then see nothing is affordable. They want $106 for the wrench, which is stamped steel, and $300 for the arbor extensions. I'll measure the spanner for you (about $20 from a machinery supplier), and I'll check on the arbor extensions. From contributor C: I would really go for the 30mm bore blades. Any professional sharpening service should be able to get you these in a full range of options. They also have larger bores, but these are for 16" and larger industrial blades. The less time spent monkeying around with the new machine, the better. From contributor L: Have blades bored out to fit the arbor. You can buy bushings to interchange the blades on other machines. We do this all the time with our tools. Cheapest and simplest way to go. Your saw sharpening shop should be able to help. If not, you need to find another sharpener. The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment). Comment from contributor S:
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
|