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Alternatives to Automotive Epoxy for Wood Filling
Question
Forum Responses
From contributor E: Some of that auto body filler is way expensive and overkill for filling voids in plywood for painting. You may want to consider better plywood over better filler. From contributor C: The thinner stuff is glazing compound, available in two part mix, or single part in a tube. Both are kind of expensive, but the two part dries very fast and sands okay. Another option is Durarock or Durabond(?) - the brown bag stuff, for drywall. Hard, dries quick, but dusty. Rock hard, the stuff in a can, mix with water, okay too. From contributor S: I touch up lacquer paint chips and dings with white Kampel Seam-Fil (designed for laminate seams). Spreads easy and dries quick. I use lacquer thinner on a rag to "sand" it flat once it cures. Shoot a topcoat of lacquer to touch up that spot and done! Not quite what you are looking for, but a neat trick nonetheless. From contributor G: We use Evercoat glazing compound which is pretty thin, sticks amazingly well and sands so thin you can read through it. They hold a patent on the formula, which improves its adhesion. The glazing is pourable, so you can't fill big holes on vertical surfaces. Color is neutral beige... makes a great wood filler and we use a lot of it. It's sold through auto body supply dealers. From contributor A: Contributor G rang the bell. We buy it from NAPA. Their bondo (Microlight) is the best and most cost effective product. At $12 a gallon, it sands very well, unlike the typical Bondo products. From the original questioner: Thanks for the info. I will probably try some of everything. I just picked up some Microlight bondo from Napa, but mine was $24 for a gallon. That's a steep jump up from yours. We probably want something like Microlight for larger stuff, and then some of the pre-mix in a tube stuff for smaller fixes. The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment). Comment from contributor L:
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