Applied Mouldings for Frame-and-Panel Doors

      Tips on how to make and apply "bolection" moldings for the joint between door frame and panel. November 10, 2005

Question
I am seeking a source for a shaper cutter or router bit that will let me make an applied molding to add to a tradional raised panel door or flat panel door. The end result would be a door with a raised molding and would require a 3/8 inch rabbet cut as a second pass. This cutter would typically have a half round and then generate a lot of height quickly with additional detail that would rest on the floating panel. Almost every high end cabinet company offers this addition detail on their door lineups. I would appreciate any help.

Forum Responses
(Architectural Woodworking Forum)
From contributor A:
Do you have any interchangeable cutterheads for a shaper? If not, there is a variety of cutterhead designs you can choose from. You can have a custom profile made to your needs or choose an off the shelf profile. I have five different styles of heads I use for different purposes. One general use design is from Leitz tools, which I buy stock knives for, for just the same purpose as you're describing. I have one profile that sounds like what you are looking for that I selected out of their catalog. I personally wouldn't use a router bit for this, mostly because I have the tooling to do it on the shaper, so I can't direct you to any specific make and model.



From contributor B:
You are referring to a Bolection moulding or panel moulding. I just applied one of my personal bolection mouldings to to about 120 assorted doors and drawer fronts in both flat and raised panel styles. I have a very nice custom router bit for one of my bolection patterns that makes a nice moulding with a large router in a router table. I also have other bolection patterns that I run in a planer style molder. It is very time consuming stuff to miter and apply so be careful how you price the upgrade. Keep in mind that if you apply it to a raised panel, the raised panel profile must have a flat area on its edge where the bolection moulding contacts it. If you use it on a tapered raised panel edge, the panel can act like a wedge when it widens in summer and pry your moulding off of the door.

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Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Moldings

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking: Cabinet Door Construction


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