Automotive Spray Guns for Wood Finish
I prefer a pot and gun set-up for WB's with the 1000K RP for pressure feed and Devilbiss CVI for Gravity fed being my go to guns for WB clears and in my experience I get a better finish with them than with my AAA when using WB. But when using solvent CV or pre-cat I notice no difference in the finish when compared to an AAA, which of course gives a huge edge to the AAA. Less over-spray, a lot less compressed air to run, gets in smaller places and it's faster. Not that you shouldn't have a few gravity guns in the shop (or seven as in my case) they're great for making samples and finishing forgotten items and since good tools are a joy to use, get the best you can afford. Not only would I look at what Iwata has to offer but Sata and Devilbiss too, and don't forget CAT, Binks and Asturo.
From the original questioner:
Thanks for your detailed response! Sounds like for solvent the AAA has less overspray than your Iwata lph400? Most of the work I do is re-finishing with solvent on-site. So overspray is a huge concern. I’m always looking for that top quality finish off the gun, no buffing.
"Other forums are saying they're off the gun finish is so good they don't have to cut and buff." You can maybe get a decent gloss off the gun but never as good as a buffed finish. We use 2K urethane and you always get some orange peel when you spray it no matter what gun you use or how you thin it. Any custom car shop buffs all their paint and it isn't because they can't spray. For production wood work finish in lower sheens you can get a beautiful off the gun finish with any system as long as you use it properly and keep it clean.
For onsite work the air-assisted airless makes the most sense versus a regular gun (hooked up to a compressor):
Next on my list is a 3 stage or 4 stage turbine paired with an Accuspray turbine gun:
A turbine will yield more overspray than an air-assisted airless and it's slower in terms of how fast you move the gun on each pass. You might be thinning your finish to get a decently low viscosity so that you lay down a smooth coat (it's dry mil thickness will be thinner than an unreduced finish).
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