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Avoiding Glaze Ghosting
Question
What we've encountered in the past is what I call ghosting. We're trying to place glaze, as much as possible, only where it should be - in tight straight lines around all the steps formed in a 5 piece door. However, the glaze tends to bite in too much and we've been able to see where excess glaze was wiped off. The Optiset will have cured 3 or 4 days before we glaze. Cleanup is done with mineral spirits. I've tried wetting the area with mineral spirits to help flow the glaze and reduce the bite, and that may help some. Suggestions? In the past we've tried spraying a high gloss clear coat over the paint because it's slick and shields the paint, but this seems excessive. My instinct is to lay a thin coat of vinyl sealer over the paint for the same effect. The same amount of work, but less build. Forum Responses
That said, you can use a glaze marker (ML Campbell makes some I think) to get the look you mentioned.
From contributor J: CAT makes a gun called the Tech Jr and it has a glazing tip that is used for just this purpose. I have the gun and it does work very well. From contributor B: Gemini has glaze pens too, and the glazing gun for pin-striping. From contributor E: Yes - use a glazing gun such as the CA Tech's TJR Glaze Setup. From contributor M: I did a kitchen a while back with line glazing in the crevices and steps only (like you). I made it easy on myself by not using a true glaze requiring a lot of rag work, but by just mixing universal pigment (burnt umber) with acetone and spraying it where I wanted it with a small cup gun. It dried extremely fast and I removed the excess spray with a scotch brite pad, at the same time rubbing down the rest of the door. I got no ghosting. But I was spraying over a clear coat which was not rubbed out prior to my dry glaze. Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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