Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article What's New  |  Site Map 

 

 
   
   
 
 


Today's
Sponsors:


Scientific Dust Collectors

SCM Group USA, Inc.

SCM Group

SCM

SDN Contracting

Seagrave Coatings Corporation

Sears Trostel Lumber Co.

Shade Dri

Sherburne Machine Development

Shomaker Lumber Company

ShopBot

SII Dry Kilns

Silvaris

Simantech

SIS Machinery

Nebraska Tool

NEMI

New England Kiln Drying Association

Newman Whitney

Norment and Lambert

North Pacific Lumber

Northtech Machinery

NPO BARS

Nydree Flooring

Nyle Dry Kiln Systems

O'Shea Lumber Company

Old Mississippi Brick and Heart Pine Company

OMGA, Inc.

Omnitech Systems

Onsrud Cutter

Opti-Sand

Original Saw Company

Osolnik Machinery & Supplies

Paul Saws and Systems

People Logic Software Corp.

Peter Meier Inc.

Pinske Edge

Pioneer Lumber Company

Planit Solutions Inc.

plastiMACH

Plogic Solutions Ltd.

Pond Cove Paint

Porter-Cable

Precision Drive Systems

Precision Saw Sharpeners

Premium Specialty Hardwoods

Pricecutter.com

Prime Estimating and Software Services, LLC

Pro.Woodworker.com

Professional Hardware & Supply Co.

Q1 Machinery

Quality VAKuum Products, Inc.

Quick Machinery Company

Quickscrews International Corporation

QuickScribe

QuickWood

QuikDrawers

Quis Machinery

R&R Drummond, Inc.

R.A.W.

R.D. Billhofer Company

Rangate

Rawles-Aden Lumber Corp.

RazorGage

Reliance Building Products

Restoration Specialists

Rex Lumber Company

Riethmiller Lumber

Ritter Manufacturing Inc.

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

Roger Shaw and Associates

Rose Machinery

Routech

Royce Ayr Cutting Tools

RT Machine Co.

Safe Passage Consulting

Safety Speed Cut

Sand-Rite Manufacturing

Sandman Products

Saw Trax Mfg.

Sawmill and Woodlot Magazine

Schmalz, Inc.

Schultz Forming Products



WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ...

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?



Balancing a Table Top       Balancing the veneers, the finishes, and the construction sequence will help keep the table flat. March 30, 2008

Question
I am making a conference table top 44" diameter x 29" high. What would be the best material to use, besides solid: particleboard or MDF? I made one top table using particleboard, with 5-ply veneer construction, high sheen rubbed finish on top, and on the back of the top table, we used sealer and stain only. The problem after finishing was the top cupped (convex). Can anyone suggest how to avoid cupping on the top table?

Forum Responses
(Furniture Making Forum)
From contributor N:
Please clarify "5-ply veneer construction... and on the back of the top table... sealer and stain only." It sounds like you put 5 layers of veneer on particleboard, which doesn't make sense to me. When you say the back (bottom) of the table had sealer and stain only, do you mean sealer and stain on veneer or on exposed particleboard?



From contributor J:
Must be for small conferences! My kitchen table is that size. Anyway, the best material depends on what equipment you have to work with, and what you are experienced with. I'd build it out of solid unless it was some species that wasn't available or was cost prohibitive in solid.

Your table cupped because you created a moisture imbalance by not putting the same amount of finish on the underside, and I suspect you didn't veneer it either. Remember, what you do to one side of a panel, you need to do the same to the other. If you do that, your problems should be minimized.



From the original questioner:
A 5-ply veneer will have a core with the grain running north-south, a layer on either side of the core with grain running east-west and another layer on either side with grain running north-south.

What I used on my conference table:
1. Face veneer (crotch mahogany)
2. Cross band
3. Particleboard
4. Cross band
5. Back veneer (Q/cut mahogany)

On the back veneer (Q/cut mahogany), we put sap stain, smoothcoat, and high-solid sealer. On the top (crotch mahogany), we did very high sheen (gloss) rubbed finish.

Contributor J, you are correct about the moisture imbalance by not putting the same amount of finish on the underside. The problem is on the top of the table, we did high gloss rubbed finish. What finish should we do on the underside?



From contributor N:
I would use the same product as on the face, in the same number of coats. You don't have to rub it out like the top. Most of my tables are hand rubbed oil and wax. I do the same 5 or 6 applications on the underside, but I don't get as carried away wet sanding on the underside.

Why did you do all that crossbanding? Was the crotch material really wrinkly or something? Seems unnecessary to me.



From contributor P:
The finish is definitely a problem, and the veneering might be too. While you got the right balance of layers on both sides, you also have to look at the sequence they were done - you can't do one side completely and then do the other, or you will have an uneven moisture balance in the core. I don't think there is anything wrong with crossbanding under the face veneer, as particleboard can sometimes telegraph through a single layer of finish.
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Finishing

  • KnowledgeBase: Finishing: General Wood Finishing




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2008 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    RR4 Box 265A
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB