Beveled Edge Fabrication

      Purchasing, making, and applying laminate beveled-edge material. December 6, 2011

I need a few tips on installing the beveled edging on laminate tops. I can buy the Wilsonart edging but it is expensive at $48 for 12'. As for all other manufacturers, I have to make the beveled edging in shop. I seem to be getting a poor top edge and my final product in a dark laminate shows the white of the edging. Should I use Titebond or contact cement to attach the edging?

Forum Responses
(Laminate and Solid Surface Forum)
From contributor R:
We quit making our own years ago - too much labor involved. $48 is a bargain. For other brands we buy ours from Kuehn Bevel Edge. They can mix and match any brands together. We use Titebond II or III to glue the edges on. We get ours with the flat back, not with the tongue. Our guys just like it that way. We use clear packing tape to apply, pulling it tight so no clamps are needed.

From contributor C:
I agree with contributor R. I always use the Flat Back (Some call it Snap Edge) and Titebond III or Elmers quick dry waterproof glues. Don't ever use contact adhesive on the edging, as it voids the warranty. Packing tape makes for great seams, and then after the glue is dried, I always go back over the joint extremely lightly with 220 or 250 sandpaper. After that, I go over the edge with a dry erase marker that matches the color of the laminate (or as close as you can get it). It seems to look better than just the raw edge. I have also used a crayon instead of the dry erase marker with good results.

From the original questioner:
Thanks to you all. I have found the contact to be really hard to use due to the pressure required and the alignment. I am able to make my own edging now which is identical to the factory made. I have to take more care in the application of it. I find the laminates which have less depth or surface treatment look better.

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