Boring Long Holes in Doors

      Here's how a pro lines up a bore hole the whole length of a man-door's strike rail. January 18, 2007

I'm installing a couple Rocky Mountain full mortise hardware sets. I have tried for the life of me to develop my own trick for indexing the screw heads so the slots are all at the same "O'clock" position and still have not perfected it. Without over-tightening the screws, or leaving any too loose, can anyone share their trick for accomplishing this?

Also, I have an electric strike going into the passive door of a double set. I have the electrified hinge, and a 5 foot long drill bit. But this is the first time I have attempted to line bore through the strike rail of an existing door. (When I make a door that is to receive this type or hardware, I machine the bore into the parts prior to assembly). So what is the safest way to drill a hole 36'' long without blowing out the face of the door?

Forum Responses
(Architectural Woodworking Forum)
From Gary Katz, forum technical advisor:
If you're a door hanger and you've got a regular old cylindrical lock boring jig you're going to laugh at me and kick yourself. Buy the longest 1/2 inch diameter bit you can find. I have one that's 18 in. and can drill through almost any door with it.

Start at the hinge that's electric. Clamp your boring jig there and drill at an angle toward the strike. Then put the jig over the strike and drill back toward the hinge. Take the drill out of the jig and go back inside those holes. The 1/2 hole will guide the bit very nicely and you'll connect the two holes. You can do this with your eyes closed, and it works every time. Great for extension flush bolts, too!

From the original questioner:
Flawless results! Thanks Gary. As for the screw heads - I've always scratched my own head on this. It's too bad someone doesn't offer a torx/allen head screw with a decorative (authentic looking) "cap" to install over the properly torqued screw.

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