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Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Cabinet Backs and Slide Installation Question
Forum Responses
From contributor R: I use only Accuride or Fulterer ball bearing slides on my stuff. I skip right over the euro slides because I think they're shoddy. A little wave in the wall that tweaks the cab slightly and the euro slides will jump off the track. Makes customers unhappy when it happens, so I don't use them. I use edgebanded ply behind the slides to shim them out when needed. I keep a ready supply of prebanded strips in the shop and make more in slow periods if I run low. Ply is more stable than the solid stock and won't split when I run a screw into it to hold the slide. I also try to build so that FF's are flush with the interior in drawer boxes to eliminate needing to shim the slides. Sometimes this isn't possible (like when the customer doesn't want end panels), so the ply shims are needed.
From contributor G: On cheaper cabinets I use Rucca slides with the plastic sockets. I build with 1/4" backs and then recess the nailer 3/4" and mount it low enough to screw the sockets through the back into the nailer. On drawer packs, I add more nailers just for the sockets. The sockets seem faster than shimming the inside of the partitions to mount the slides to. You need a lot of different thickness shims, which is just a pain. The sockets are adjustable and faster. From contributor B: We make U hangers and use a 7" nailer across the back of the cabinet. The sides of the hanger are 22 1/4 inches and the back is the same width as the drawer opening. We attach the slides to the hanger, leaving about 5/8 hanging over the front edge. Then attach the front two screws through the slides into the face frame. Slide the drawer in and align with one hand and set the back of the hanger with the other. From contributor E: I don't see how you could use the sockets with 1/4" backs. You could switch to a thicker back or switch to the method of flushing the box to the inside edge of the stiles, which makes slide installation too easy. It also makes it possible to line bore the sides if you have that capability. The other major benefit is that then you can use the regular hinge plates instead of the face frame types. It also allows you to use, if you use Blum, the Tandems and TandemBox slides without jury-rigging shims and spacers, which don't look very professional, in my opinion. Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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