Circular Sawmill Blade Sharpening
From contributor T:
Thanks. I have seen that Jockey system, but at $800 it seems somewhat steep. Is there a place less expensive?
From contributor D:
I take my saw off and put it on a post grinder. Easier to keep the edge square. I get my teeth from Arsaw and he was trying to sell me their grinder. I've just started using their teeth and they seem excellent, so their grinder might be good too. Taking the saw off is a bit of a pain.
From contributor B:
Meadows Mills sells a hand crank filer that works good.
From contributor S:
If you can find a Jockey grinder you can afford, that's the way to go. I thought I was good at hand filing until we got the Jockey. I got lucky and "stole" my grinder - I offered a guy 50 bucks for his jokingly, and he said sold.
From contributor A:
Look for sawmill auctions. There are lots of them now. I got a grinder at an auction in IL for $35. Most go for around $250.
From Professor Gene Wengert, forum technical advisor:
With a 56" blade, some time you will have to have it re-tensioned (hammered) to keep it running straight and not wobbling. At that point, consider cutting it back to 48", as very few mills need 56" and it is quite unstable at times. It also has more teeth than you really need today (unless you are cutting very large logs). We had a 56" on my mill in VA, and also a 52". After we cut it back to 48", it was fantastic. Jockey grinder is worth the money. Have someone show you how to use it best so the teeth are straight and do not turn blue, etc.
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