Clear Filler for Worm Tracks
The end finish I am putting on is a walnut oil and tung oil blend. I am using a natural color stain ahead of the oils. I am considering doing a nice coat of epoxy to fill in some of the minor ticks and such so I can get that super-smooth finish folks love.
From the original questioner:
The client and I want the filler to be clear, so we can actually look into the wood. No color or additives, though lord knows I've got black walnut dust to spare. I was considering using some walnut oil simply because the wood is walnut, no other reason beyond that. I have tung oil ready and waiting. In general, is there a compatibility problem using tung oil over epoxies? I could see how using a thin coating of epoxy to fill in minor gaps could be problematic for the overall application of tung oil. My primary concern is those areas that really need filling from the worms and beetles of days past and some sloppy, though character-building, chainsaw millwork.
I looked at West Marine's website and at all products they have associated with epoxy and did not really see something that fits the description I am looking for: pourable, clear, some elasticity, sandable, and can fill voids bigger than 1/2". Perhaps epoxy is not what I am looking for...?
From contributor C:
Then let me suggest this. Use b-72 acrylic from Kremer Pigments in NY. It comes in a solid pellet form and you dissolve it in appropriate solvent - this way you can make it as thick or thin as you desire. It is beyond crystal clear and will not yellow with age. It is permanent, but can be redissolved in its original solvent (thermoplastic). It is used as a consolidant in wood conservation and has all the characteristics you're listing here, plus it is not expensive - especially for the amount you would need.
As for West System, no! Plus it would yellow with time, so don't use if you want clear forever. One drawback I think you'll find on any clear filler is that it will stand out as to the rest of the surface, but if this is acceptable, then go with it. There are no compatibility problems with tung and epoxy or acrylic or polyester. It will build a film over any of them, but as I say, seeing the filler will be smooth and plastic - it will stand out from the rest of the surface. You could take a hot exacto knife to the acrylic and imitate the grain, which I do when touching up an oil finish with BI sticks, if you want, but in your case you may not want the distortion from this process.
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