Copper Countertop Tips
From the original questioner:
I searched the forum for info on copper prior to my posting, and I read where it takes special attention to adhesives - it really surprised me that that would be the case. Just goes to show how much money/grief can be saved by taking a little time to pick the brains of others, as I would have used regular contact cement and never thought twice about it!
I called Revere Brass, a company started by Paul Revere many years ago. I talked to a nice fellow who has worked at that company for 39 years. He suggested I not even try to glue the copper down, as most all adhesives won't hold. He also told me that it will not matter as to the hardness of the copper, as it will all scratch and dent.
He told me it is very, very difficult to remove all of the oils, etc. from copper sheet, and that it (the sheet) will be oil canned (a term that indicates a metal sheet is not truly flat - you push down on a bubble here, and it pops up over there).
Apparently, the imbedded oils cause the most problem with adhesives - then add to that the ever-present stresses from the oil canning and you've got a problem waiting to happen.
There's a company in a town 120 miles from me that custom-builds gaskets for the oilfield - a 36" x 72" x .032 sheet of dead-soft copper will cost $452.00, and I have to drive over to pick it up. That's over $25 per square foot. They can get thinner material, but I was told it would cost even more.
From contributor H:
Have you thought about using metal laminate, such as Chemsurf brushed copper aluminum? There are many other laminate manufacturers that make metal laminate.
Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?