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Correcting a Yellow Cast on Cherry
Question
Forum Responses
From the original questioner: Thanks. I was thinking of that, only a small amount to tint a little. I probably could skip the dye step then. The only problem is I wasn't going to dye the center panels. They are recessed 1/4 ply and are grey to begin with, making them come out darker than the stiles and rails. So using just the clear stain on the center panels, and the tinted base on the stiles and rails, seems like the only solution. Is this the norm, selective toning? From contributor M: Each job is different - there is no norm in finishing. Make up some start to finish samples, do some tests, and then if needed, make adjustments. From contributor R: If you're dyeing the wood darker, why are you using the clear stain? Dye the wood the color you need and finish without it. From contributor C: A very light purple tint added to your clear stain base will counter the yellow tones (making them into browns). This should solve your problem. By keeping the tint very transparent, you should still get good blotch control. Another good approach would be to add some light purplish tones to any of your topcoats... Either way, you get the kill of the yellows and some more browns, which will help you get dark enough. Keep in mind... reds and greens create browns, greens are yellows and blues, ergo; blues and reds (purples) will brown yellows. From contributor M: Contributor R, it's used to prevent blotching, like thinned out wash coats, glue sizing, wood conditioners, etc. From contributor R: I'm aware of its use, but he said it is turning his project too yellow. If he can get the final color with dyes, he won't need the stain base. If he needs an oil stain after that to tweak it, he should use a washcoat. From the original questioner: I'm using Sherwin Williams wiping stains as the main stain, with the clear stain base, as the first step. I did try contributor M's suggestion of lightly tinting the clear toner base and after some tests, finally got a perfect match on the back of a drawer front. For me, this will be easier than toning the wood initially with the dye. I did try it with the dye and got a perfect match as well, but the tinted stain base will save a step. Currently my schedule is:
If I still need toning, I will take contributor C's suggestion and add some purple to the CV. Thanks very much.
From contributor M: We're happy that it worked out for you. Do you have a color wheel in your shop? If not, you should get one. Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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