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Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? De-Nailing Antique Pine Question
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From contributor C: I run reclaimed pine almost exclusively. I use a standard handheld metal detector (like used for hunting old coins). Mine is a Fisher... costs around $1000. There are other lower priced ones available. I've used low-priced Radio Shack detectors with great results. A couple of 55 gallon plastic drums laid down works for a good platform to detect the boards on. I suggest getting a couple of 1" wide chisels, some 1/8" punches, and some vise-grips for chiseling down to and pulling out those broken off nails. I chisel down until about 1/8" to 1/4" of the nail is exposed, then clamp on the vise grips and rock the grips over like a lever to pull the nails out. The punch can drive nails out that are broken, but go entirely through the board. Metal detecting is pretty much a necessity. Not only does it save time and money on blades, but one nail can cost a pretty penny if it makes it into the moulder. The saw isn't going to find 'em all. Oh, if you're going to be doing the moulding, I suggest carbide when running heart pine. The stuff is tough, and dulls HSS knives really fast. It also gums up the moulder and feed rollers. I spray my heads and the entire inside of the moulder with silicone spray before running, and it seems to help keep the gum from sticking to the parts so badly. There's still a lot of cleanup to do often, but the gum comes off much easier when the parts are coated with silicone. Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
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