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Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Dedicated vs. power-fed tablesaw ripping Q.
Forum Responses
From contributor B: Yes. I had a saw with a feeder and it worked very well. When I found a used import straight line rip I upgraded. It has 7hp and rips 1" very well, however it is not enough HP to do too much 2". Not needing a straight edge to cut and not having the feeder slip makes it a real joy to use. I cross-cut most of my stock first, so with one operator you can stay busy stuffing it in one end and picking it up on the other. I am using a glue joint rip blade from Systi-Matic. It does a fantastic job. From contributor T: I would be interested in knowing what your end product(s) is and how you receive your raw lumber (straightlined and surfaced already, perhaps?). From contributor B: I make kitchen and bath cabinets using the 32mm system of construction. My material comes H&M 15/16. Most lumber is cut for door and drawer fronts as well as other trim parts. From contributor T: Thinking of an old tilt table, belt driven Yates American or similar brand set up with a feeder and dedicated to certain ripping jobs. The arbor is longish and can sometimes run two blades with a spacer in between (cleat stock, etc.). The cost of such a saw can be $1200 or less. Often it has 10 hp. For short pieces, a hopper may be advised. A hundred fpm is not uncommon on these beasts. Blade projection can easily be 6". You have a straight edge already so fence feeding will retain it. Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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