|
|
Detail for the Base of a Fluted Pilaster
Question
I was thinking that I would have a 5" board that is attached to the side of the cabinet flush to the front. Then I would have the 4" pilaster centered on that board. The pilaster would be in the same plane as the doors and drawer fronts. How do you make the drop in front of the toekick recess look proper? Does anyone have an example they can show me? Forum Responses
 Click here for higher quality, full size image From contributor W: I understand exactly what your issue is. We have always built using exactly the way Contributor F shows on his drawing - basically using fillers to go down to the floor on each side. We set these up flush with the doors. We have two different sizes (one is 1 1/2" and one is 1 3/4" depending on look) we use reguarly, or we do what you need - pilasters or something like that. We also use the filler method to start a cabinet run, to pull something forward in the layout, or in something as simple as an outside open corner so we are not ever mitering or running toekick skin around a box (unless it is furniture base). We somewhat jokingly refer to this as a modified euro style, as the filler piece becomes a face frame of sorts. One last thing - we use a 1" door as our standard, so we make the fillers out of 6/4 or better stock so that we don't have to miter it to the return piece that gets mounted to the side of the cabinet. The thought is that when the door is open, due to the thickness of the filler face piece being greater than the door plus the bumper, you can't see the joint to the side panel it is mounted to. This speeds up our filler fabrication a lot. It really is a nice built-in look when it is done.
Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
|
