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Dimensioning Door Tenons and Space Balls
Question
Forum Responses
From contributor F: I run a .5" long tenon and I size my panels to compress the .25" diameter space balls .0625" per panel edge. From contributor B: To contributor F: So you make your doors 3/8" small, since two balls are 1/2", you compress the balls 1/8", or 1/16" each - did I get that right? Are 3/8 tenons good with these things or should I get the extra cutters to shift to 1/2" tenons? From contributor F: To contributor B: Yes, you need a .5" long tenon which equals a .5" deep panel groove. .375" tenons don’t leave enough room for the space ball and the panel edge in my opinion. With my 1/2" deep panel groove, I insert a 1/4" diameter space ball which then leaves 1/4" of space for the panel in its uncompressed state. However, I size my door panels so that they compress the spaceballs 1/16" on all four edges. This means I have 5/16" of panel edge inside the panel groove on all edges. With a 3/8" tenon and panel groove depth, and 1/16" compression of a 1/4" diameter space ball you only have 3/16" of panel edge in the groove. I suppose it will work that way but if your panel shrinks then you have even less in the groove. As a side benefit to running a deeper groove, you are making a stronger door because you have a longer tenon and more gluing surface.
From contributor T: My shop is in Montana - low humidity and we ship all over the lower 48. Our raised panels are 5/16" smaller than the opening they go in (5/32") on each side and we have never have problems. Also, I would strongly suggest going to insert tooling. They last 3-4 times longer, the fit is always the same, and in the long run they are less expensive. Also the set up is the same every time. I would recommend checking out Ballew Saw & Tool From contributor J: To contributor T: Who's insert tooling are you using from Ballew? I have been a fan of the Freeborn tantung line for a few years now. I would like to switch my cope and stick cutters to insert tooling, but I really haven't been convinced that inserts are that much better than brazed tooling, in price, performance, and sharpening costs. We run about 5,000 doors a year, mostly in ash, maple and red oak. I do use a Byrd tooling insert panel raiser and back cutter that came with the last big shaper I bought. It really does a good job, but it is expensive to replace all six inserts.
From contributor T: To contributor J: I use LRH just because that was the one on sale at Ballew when I first started using insert tooling. I would suggest trying it - it is less expensive than sharpening. You can only sharpen so many times before you have to replace or at least re-tip, and the fit is always perfect.
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