Door Stops for Cabinets
From contributor D:
A small block screwed on behind the door does the trick. Drill some slots for adjustability. Set it back enough to allow for cushion/bumpers. The middle of the door is ideal, but top of the door will work. On larger doors, go top and bottom if middle isn't available. The self-close hinge will put enough pressure on the door in closed position to sometimes warp the door in a little where there isn't a stop. That's why the middle is ideal. Of course, without partitions or fixed shelves, you're out of luck. With frame cabs you can usually stick a block behind the frame. Free swing hinges with catches are another route to go.
From contributor L:
I second the block, but when you install your shelves, the door(s) shouldn't do that anymore.
From contributor A:
From contributor D:
...that's if there are shelves, and if they're the right size (depth) to stop the door.
From contributor K:
There are various methods, some already mentioned. Some are more efficient to install, and some just look better...
Easier to install:
With the magnetic catches, you'll want to pay attention to the pull force required (9-12lbs. of force is usually most comfortable).
Less efficient to install, but look better:
What we use, and is both efficient and good looking, is a 2" finished rail (same as FF) behind the face frame, set 3/4" down into the opening of the frame. Granted, it's old school, but it's easy to install, no adjustments and the step-down provides a beefy look.
From contributor G:
I edgeband the front edge of the bottoms of my cabinetry and make the cabinets 3/8" shorter than normal to allow the bottom of the cabinet to show that 3/8" inside the cabinet frame. It allows a little fudge room when attaching the frame and it's also a great stop for the door without adding blocks or catches. The step that it shows when the doors are open is a classy look. On wall cabinets, it also allows for an extra 3/8" for finished bottoms and puck lights.
From the original questioner:
There were no shelves to act as stops and there was no face frame to raise the case bottom against. I ended up making my own stops out of walnut to match the casework. These were fitted with threaded inserts and a machine screw with a plastic cap and felt bumper. Very low profile, good looking and quite inexpensive. Adjusts beautifully and only one screw was needed to hold it in place. Thank you!
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