|
|
|
| Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article | Login | Become a Member | What's New | Site Map |
|
WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ... |
|
|
Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Drilling Out a Broken Dowel 
Question
Forum Responses
Don't just clamp down without some cushioned shop made jaws to match part of the outside radius of the finial or you'll deform the edges. Also, be sure to do a good estimate on your depth settings so as to not blow out of the top of the finial.
From contributor B: I would do pretty much what Matt said, but you may want to try something a little different. Instead of trying to drill out the entire broken dowel, try to drill a small hole in the center, and then screw a screw about half way down. Then, depending how much glue was used or how old the bed is, you can pull out the dowel. It’s kind of like pulling a tooth. The screw makes it easier to pull out, perhaps with pliers or a claw hammer. When it comes out, it leaves a clean hole. From contributor T: We jig the finial (version of previous posts) and bore on the center of the dowel/finial after cutting the dowel off flush with finial bottom; starting with undersize bits and increasing the bit size incrementally till either the remaining dowel walls release with the boring. Or when it’s bored out to near final size, we pick out the remaining "peanut-shell" walls with an awl, leaving the original bore. Then we might do a final on-size bore to clean up. It often makes sense to glue the new dowels into the posts. That makes it easier to fit the tester rails over and slide the finial on last.
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
|
