Today's
Sponsors:


Wright Timber

Zipbolt

Template Services

Terminus

The Machine Warehouse

Thermwood Corporation

TigerStop

TigerwoodDecking.com

TimberKing

Timesavers Inc.

TMS Machinery Sales

Tooling on the Web

Touch Up Solutions

Tractivity

TradeJobPlacement.com

TradeSoft

Tritec/GANNOmat

Tropical Hardwoods

TSI

UC Coatings Corp.

Unique Building Supples

Unique Machine & Tool

University of Wisconsin

UWMO Auctions

Vacuum Pressing Systems, Inc.

Vacuumpods.com

Valspar

Vectric Ltd.

Veneer Systems Inc.

Vintage Wood Products

VortexTool Co. Inc.

VyTek

W. Moore Profiles, Ltd.

Wagner Electronic Products

WalzCraft Industries

WEIMA America, Inc.

Weinig

Western Dovetail

Williams and Hussey

Wisconsin Knife Works

Wizard Industries

WMMA

Wood Doctor's Rx, LLC

Wood Technology Inc

Wood-Mizer

WoodCabinetDoors.com

WoodenBoat

WoodJobs.com Search Consultants

WoodLINKS

Woodmaster

WoodPlanet Inc.

WoodSprayGuns.com

WOODWEB

Woodworker's Supply/woodworker.com

Woodworker's Directory

Woodworking in America

Woodworking Technology




Drilling Out a Broken Dowel

      It's kind of like pulling a wisdom tooth. February 26, 2007

Question
How do I remove a broken dowel from a canopy bedpost finial without breaking the finial? I recently had two dowels broke off the finials leaving about 2" as I was struggling to erect the canopy frame by myself.

Forum Responses
(Furniture Making Forum)
From contributor M:
You need to drill out the dowel. You can do this either at the drill press with the workpiece in a vice with cork-lined jaws that conform to the profile of the finial, or if the finial is small enough you can make a set of jaws for a dowelling jig to fit around.

Don't just clamp down without some cushioned shop made jaws to match part of the outside radius of the finial or you'll deform the edges. Also, be sure to do a good estimate on your depth settings so as to not blow out of the top of the finial.



From contributor B:
I would do pretty much what Matt said, but you may want to try something a little different. Instead of trying to drill out the entire broken dowel, try to drill a small hole in the center, and then screw a screw about half way down. Then, depending how much glue was used or how old the bed is, you can pull out the dowel. It’s kind of like pulling a tooth. The screw makes it easier to pull out, perhaps with pliers or a claw hammer. When it comes out, it leaves a clean hole.


From contributor T:
We jig the finial (version of previous posts) and bore on the center of the dowel/finial after cutting the dowel off flush with finial bottom; starting with undersize bits and increasing the bit size incrementally till either the remaining dowel walls release with the boring. Or when it’s bored out to near final size, we pick out the remaining "peanut-shell" walls with an awl, leaving the original bore. Then we might do a final on-size bore to clean up. It often makes sense to glue the new dowels into the posts. That makes it easier to fit the tester rails over and slide the finial on last.



Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Furniture

  • KnowledgeBase: Furniture: Furniture Repairs




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2012 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB













  •   Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article