|
|
| Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article | Login | Become a Member | What's New | Site Map |
|
WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ... |
|
|
Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Drying Siberian Elm Slabs Question
![]() Click here for higher quality, full size image ![]() Click here for higher quality, full size image Forum Responses
The first bunch I did was sawn 5/4 and air dried. The flinches were about 20" wide and they cupped up to an inch and the whole works was so buggy we ended up pushing in the pit and burning. The second bunch was a lot better, lots of weight and dry slow.
From contributor R: Isn't Siberian elm what we tend to call Chinese elm here in the middle of the country? The ones that grow wild? I've always heard that it's soft and too fibrous to work with. From contributor W: I know there is a Chinese elm. The stuff we have is the Siberian. It also grows wild. We have it everywhere, mostly where we don't want it. I have tried several times to use it but have found that it likes to move around. It does make a fairly good horse fence if nailed up green. From Professor Gene Wengert, forum technical advisor: It does like to warp, as stated. Therefore, air drying with good air flow is the best drying, if you can keep the rain (and snow) off the lumber. I agree that heavy weights are essential. From contributor J: Siberian elm is the weed tree that throws seeds in the spring. Chinese elm seeds in the fall. Here in WY the Siberian were used for shelterbelts and you could count on a bushel of seeds every spring, but no tree worth anything except for firewood. Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
|