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Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Dust Collection Direct to a Trailer 
Question
Forum Responses
From contributor G: You need a rotary air lock at the bottom of the cyclone. This unit discharges the dust but maintains an air tight seal. Contributor J, cyclones must be designed correctly for your needs. I doubt that you will have much luck with an old grain bin. Look around - you should be able to find an entire used system cheaper than you can build one. From contributor L: If you build the trailer air tight, you don't need an airlock. I have my cyclone/blower located at the back of my shop tucked under the gable peak overhang. Bottom of cyclone is about 8ft above the ground. Trailer is below. Try to keep the cyclone out from the building far enough to allow the discharge into the center of the trailer box top. When emptying, all I need to do is remove 4 or 5 spring loaded clamps that clamp the lower half of the flex tube adapter to the cyclone bottom. I also built on the side of the trailer a ladder to enable me to reach the clamps easily. From contributor T: Contributor J, we have the same intentions with our new shop. I was thinking of building a directional type baffling inside the enclosed trailer to make the cyclone. As to the system you were talking about with a commercially purchased cyclone, what about the filter part of the system - the part designed to capture the smallest dust that doesn't fall? Did he just do away with that part? Contributor L, do you have the filter part in your shop for return air? Also, why does the trailer have to be completely airtight? Is this just to prevent air from returning back into the exhaust? From contributor L: I use 7 of the .5 or 1 micron filter tubes located inside the shop. The trailer needs to be airtight because I don't have a rotary airlock at the bottom of the cyclone. That saved me about $2000. The price I pay for that is I need to disconnect the trailer from the cyclone to empty the trailer. From contributor G: You need an airlock or air tight trailer. If not, the air will just be blasted out of the leaks in the trailer, dusting up the neighborhood and not properly returning into the shop. This is with a push through (fan before cyclone and/or filters) system. With a pull through (fan after cyclone and/or filters), air can be sucked out of the trailer and/or up through the bottom of the cyclone instead of through the duct work. From contributor B: I'd be obliged if some of you would post pictures of your system. We need to do something along this order. Pictures are of great interest. From contributor L: You asked for it. There is a wood ladder built into the side of the trailer next to building that allows easy access to remove the squeeze clamps that connect the bottom of the cyclone to the trailer intake. And that white stuff is Rochester sunshine. Heh heh.  Click here for full size image From contributor J: Here is a CAD drawing of the system I mentioned.  Click here for full size image Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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