Evaluating a Used Sliding Table Saw
If it's one of the keeper bearings that hold the slider down on the ways, it's nothing. This is available at any decent machine shop supply house. We replaced a couple of those ourselves. If it's the skate-board that rides between the ways and the slider, it may just be a wheel that needs tightening. Ours had an obvious clunking in the slide when we bought it. A crescent wrench fixed that. You should probably remove the slider and have a look at the skate-board. Take the cross-cut carriage off first. Then look for a cap-screw at the front of the slider and down between the ways. Undo that and you can remove a steel stop-block. The whole slide will run off the back of the saw then. You'll probably want to do this anyway if you buy the saw and need to move it yourself.
Other parts are available. We had to replace a cross-cut stop and we got it through a guy who repairs and sets up woodworking machinery. Griggio is still going strong. They make real machinery. We got one of their shapers at the same bankruptcy sale.
A lot has been said in previous posts about phenolic ways and how we should avoid them. The fact is that if the saw has been properly used, the ways are good for decades. As I mentioned above, if there's a long run of cross-cutting it's best to move the carriage to a new spot so it's not running over the same part of the ways all the time. That only takes 4 or 5 seconds and will add years to the life of the saw. If you can get it for less than 3K and you put a few hours of work into it, it's not going to owe you anything in a few years.
From contributor B:
I had one of these saws marketed under the Sicma name. It ran like a champ for many years. I never had a problem with the phenolic ways. I believe Griggio made the same machine for HolzHer. This would probably be a great deal if you can get clean one for less than 3K.
From contributor C:
Altendorf used phenolic guides right up until a few years ago. They rarely wear out and they're a lot quieter than steel ones.
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