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File Drawer Hardware
Question
Forum Responses
From contributor T: I agree with Contributor S. I would also suggest that you only I use 1/8" x 1" flat steel. Paint it with black Rustoleum or Hammerite and you're ready to go. It’s much cleaner looking than purchased hardware. I make mine from the .125"x.75" flat steel (zinc plated). I also cut a notch in the ends so that the drawer sides capture them. Be sure to file off any burrs so the ladies don’t cut their fingers.
From contributor L: We do much the same, but have changed to the steel clips that screw to the drawer box and hold the file bars, 1/8 x 3/4 or 1" galvanized steel or aluminum. We front to back long drawers and cross wise short drawers. Like everyone said - allow plenty of room above bars for tabs and over sized files. From contributor A: We have used both copper and brass stock. It doesn't cost much and really adds to the quality image. From contributor T: There are two kinds of rod holder clips. One is mortised to clamp over the top edge of the drawer sides allowing the drawer to be lower and the files to stand up out of the drawer. The other clip attaches to the inner face of the side allowing for a higher drawer and the files are fully recessed down in the box. Either way these beat plastic runners and the brass and black clips make for a quality look that gets the clients attention. The same flat steel rod when rabbeted into the leading edge of very long door and drawer faces prior to veneering or lamination will drastically cut down on cupping and warping.
From contributor F: I am curious what the leading edge of a door or a drawer front is? From contributor T: The leading edge would be opposite the hinge side. This technique cut way back on re-makes of long warped doors and drawers. We had set the number above 40" to be considered a long door or drawer. It did take extra work but in the end, we had to re-assign the service man to other duties for lack of service calls.
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