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Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Finish Cracks at Joints in a Five-Piece Door 
Question
Forum Responses
From contributor C: The reason manufacturers use what is called a quirk, aka a fine routed line, where joints meet is just because of this problem. I'm in full agreement with this practice. If the client will not accept the fact that wood moves, then I would create a quirk/reveal/route line at the joint to show him, and if that was not acceptable, then use a one-piece solid substrate such as phenolic MDF. If by chance you're making these doors yourself, you could possibly use a corebox construction to make the frame and then inset a plywood panel or other. From contributor N: You might try solid maple rails with MDF centers or premium grade maple. Premium grade maple costs more, but so does repairing it. From contributor S: I don't know what the maximum build on the Plasticolor is, but that seems high. That said, the way I have gotten around the problem has been to use auto body filler, Bondo, over the joints. Just apply a thin skim of it over the joint and sand most of it off. The filler tends to work into the wood at the joint and helps hide the joint when you paint it. The other thing I have done is to use a quick dry enamel, but the only problem with that is that you have to wait 72 hours between coats or all hell breaks loose. I use white lacquer undercoat as a primer. By the way, only use the quick dry if you want high gloss finish. Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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