Finishing Racks for Cabinet Doors
From contributor B:
Here's what I do after reading a blurb about it in Jewitt's book "Finishing" and reading Conistoga's finishing specs for their doors. They take a board with screws coming up from the bottom, forming a "bed of nails" on which you rest your door. Spray the back side first and not the edges. Flip over onto the screw points (gently) then spray the face side and the edges. The screw points leave almost invisible defects in the finish - and always on the backside. I used DX 1/2" ply and gold drywall screws. Ply is about 16X24. It also makes a lot of sense to have two sides wet and finished in half the time.
From contributor J:
I just bought the Pivot-Pro system two sets of cabinets ago. It's a pricey investment, delivered for a set-up to spray and dry 24 doors, but its' absolutely the best money I've spent lately in my shop. I also use it for spraying and drying face frames and drawer boxes. I'm getting ready to order hinges for 24 more doors and another drying rack. Finishing has been my bottleneck. This rig fixed it.
From contributor S:
My drying rig is only 48" square but it holds 62 doors (60 or 62, can't remember). Anyway, it's kind of hard to explain in words but I'll give it a shot.
1. A 48" square platform made from 3/4" scrap ply with wheels on each corner, edged in 3/4" x 1 1/2" oak for (some) rigidity.
2. An 8"x8" square post as tall as you can reach, centered and screwed to the platform. Mine's 55-60" tall, something like that.
3. A whole bunch of 3/4" x 2" x 42" arms / supports, whatever you want to call them. Each pair of arms will support 2 doors when you're done assembling this thing, so cut as many as you think you'll need.
4. Starting at the top, screw and glue one arm centered on one side of the post and another arm parallel to the first arm but on the opposite side of the post. You should now have two arms flush with the top of the post sticking out in the same direction 8" apart and 17" or so clearance from the post on each end.
5. Turn the post 1/4 turn clockwise, and attach to more arms butted up underneath the first two arms. You should now have 2 arms sticking out one way, 2 more sticking out the other way.
6. Continue turning the post and butting arms underneath each other until you've gone down as far as you want to go.
When you're done, the arms themselves create the space for the doors. The doors will rest on the arms with plenty of clearance from one another while still saving a lot of space by overlapping them. 17" arm clearance will easily hold 24-30" or so of door without tipping. Make the arms out of something sturdy, like oak maybe. My first prototype used MDF and it held the doors well enough but it didn't hold up to lots of use.
From contributor M:
Hafele has racks and they work great. I think they were about $200 on sale and about $50 for delivery (2 sets). They hold 50 each.
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