Glazing Technique for Good Contrast
From contributor J:
Shoot a coat of clear, then glaze, and then another clear. The clear under the glaze will allow you to use an abrasive to get a little more aggressive scrubbing the glaze away. As mentioned, a rag with a mild solvent such as naphtha to clean off residue helps. Lastly, as also mentioned, using a harder product such as conversion varnish allows you to get a little more aggressive removing the glaze.
From contributor W:
I have never tried one but I've seen glazing guns. You can apply the glaze only to the profiles.
From contributor F:
There are techniques such as using a glaze gun with a tip that makes it more like a flow pin because air isnít used. The rule of thumb is that you don't put the glaze where you don't want the color to change. That goes for pre or post cat. Yes you can do a solvent wipe but do not let it dry overnight if you have sanded in-between coats the previous day unless you plan on sanding again the next day. Coatings stretch out during the initial cure and it causes issues with the next coats adhesion (re-coat window). If you sand, put the next coat on that day if possible. If not, re-sand again when the next coat can be applied.
From contributor M:
Even post-cat products end up with a color shift. Look for various glaze pens or squirt bottle type things for accenting various places.
From contributor V:
If you don't want the color shift you need to use a glazing gun. C.A.T. has one but it is pricey. I tried that first but now have the Asturo glazing gun. Itís less expensive and much higher quality. You can glaze a door in a few minutes once you get the technique and viscosity down.
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