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Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Gluing Reclaimed Heart Pine Question
Forum Responses
From Professor Gene Wengert, Sawing and Drying Forum technical advisor: It would be common that the heat from the saws would melt some of the pitch that would be hard at room temperature. When heated and melted, the pitch flows to the freshly cut surface and makes it hard to glue. For the strongest joint, you need to remove the pitch with a solvent before gluing (solvents for teak have been discussed before and should be in the archives) or you can lightly sand the surface (no heat) before gluing. It is my impression that a PUR adhesive will often work well in spite of this resin - try a few test pieces and see. From the original questioner: Thanks. I'd sure hate to find out the hard way that glue doesn't hold heart pine well, especially on a laminated blank turning a 10" bowl. Looks like I'm in the clear, so I appreciate the help! From contributor F: I would be interested to hear what type of glue you used and how it turned out. I have some heart pine I sawed with my Wood-Mizer and want to turn it too. But the blanks I've cut have hair-line cracks and I am hoping CA glue will work for me. From the original questioner: I haven't done it yet. CA glue should take care of the cracks just fine. Be sure to use thin CA. From contributor A: I live in heart pine country. It is not like the other pines. The heart will often have a very high resin content. I have built many stairs with it. I have tried most glues and the only one I have never had a problem with is West System. If the resin is so thick that it cakes up on the wood when planed or sawn, I usually wash it off with lacquer thinner, then glue up the treads. Most of my work deals with geometric types. I make them about an inch or two longer than needed. When I cut them to size, I have scraps an inch or so long that I break to see if it breaks on the glue line. I have never had a glue failure with the epoxy. I have had several problems with the other glues. I recently finished an open well hole stair made of Brazilian cherry and used urethane. Big mistake. Never again. Every scrap broke at the glue joint. I have one tread glue failure that I know of as of now. I joint all of the wood that the treads are made of and during the dry fitting, if the joints do not fit as near perfect as is reasonable, I re-joint until they are right before glue up. I don't take shortcuts any more and I use only West System; it works for me. Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
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