Grain standards for radius mouldings

      Standards methods for joinery of radius mouldings, with exposure of end-grain in mind. June 6, 2001

Question
What is the standard for grain direction and joint joinery for stain-grade radius moulding?

I am assuming you want to show little or no end-grain, but then you must use several pieces joined end-to-end, and I'm not certain of the best method to do this inconspicuously.

Forum Responses
I have had good results in the past by simply butt jointing the segments of radius work. I generally try to use dowels, where it is possible. Sometimes you can use biscuits if you are positive they are not in the profile cut line. Take a little extra time to match your grain pattern and color at the joints if at all possible.



Another way is to rip the stock into strips thin enough to follow the radius, then glue and clamp to a form. A pencil line across the face of the board helps line the grain up again. You also want to keep the strips in the same order they came off the board. A two piece form is better than one for even pressure.

If I don't have time for that type, I've used biscuits and finger joints with good success. Too few joints will give an angled pattern to the grain and make you use a wider board.



Our method for stain-grade arched moldings is to divide the molding into equal radius sections as wide as your stock will allow, ie: typical window arch may have 4 sections covering 45 degrees each. We sometimes will edge-glue a couple of boards together if we don't have stock that is wide enough. On some higher-end work, we may even book-match the grain so it is balanced on both sides. But most important is to have all sections equally mitered around the curve.


We also segment the radius. What I like to do is lay out the radius on a sheet of plywood and position the sections to locate the joint area. I look at the position of the joints as though the perimeter is a clock--this way the segments join equally at both sides.

I believe book matching on stain grade is a must.



Has anyone done radiused crown molding? For paint grade, we rip up the crown on the band saw and bend, glue and pin it to a form, but what to do with the stain grade?


We make our curved crown by layering segments to build up a triangular block, which get passed through out tilt-moulder. Our casings are segmented (typically 16" long segments finger-jointed end to end), and the crown is, in effect, simply individual casings layered one on top of another.

There are, of course, a good number of other small details, but that is the basic scheme.



Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Custom Millwork

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Moldings

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining: General

  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base


    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2017 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB











  • WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers


      Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article