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Interior Barn-Style DoorsQuestion
Forum Responses
The majority I have seen have gate type hardware, this usually is best due to the final door thickness which may or may not accommodate normal door hardware. Due to the wide range of what this description may call for, I would get the customer to clarify what would be expected, including the type of hardware that will be used. Are they actually going into a barn?
From contributor P: I did these for a garage. I laminated two pieces of 3/4 pine for the door frames (with lap joints), and 3/4 bead board panels. I used Stanley roller hardware to make them slide. ![]() Click here for higher quality, full size image From contributor O: The doors are simple - board and batten, frame and panel, flush, etc. The hardware is important. The functional opening is smaller than the trimmed opening - a 36" wide opening will only be about 30" wide, with a 38" door due to the pulls/placement on the door and stops. The track has to be sized from that, with blocking in the wall to carry it all. Track, hangers, hanger stops and sway stops are all needed, and should be sized (by someone) to prevent smashed fingers on pulls, swinging into walls, jumping the track, or coming off the end of the track. The company on the link has good info and good products and service.
From the original questioner: I think that will work - thanks. I think they already acquired hardware from the company Contributor O mentioned. Did you leave paneling float for expansion? From contributor P: Yes. The beadboards are glued to each other and the panel floats in the frame. Plenty of wood movement going on here in NJ, especially in an unheated garage near the water.
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