Today's
Sponsors:


Logosol

Lumber Resources

Lumber Smith

M.L. Campbell

MACHINEKING.com

MARTIN Woodworking Machines Corp.

Mastercam - CNC Software

Maxima Software

Maya Positioning Equipment

Mereen-Johnson Machine Company

Merritt Woodwork

Microvellum

Middle Valley Lumber

Mikron Woodworking Machinery

Mill Outlet

Millwork Inc.

MLS Machinery

Monarch Machinery

Monarch Metal Z Clip and Panel Clip

Moulder Techniques

Mountainside Wood Products

MultiCam Southeast

Multicam, Inc.

Nail Gun Depot

National Decon

New England Drawer

New England Kiln Drying Association

NEWCNC.com

Newman-Whitney

Nyle Dry Kiln Systems

O'Shea Lumber Company

Old Mississippi Brick and Heart Pine Company

Hoffmann Machine Company

Holz-Her US Inc.

Hot Melt Technologies

Howard S. Twichell Co.

Hvalsoe Sawmill Ltd.

ICA North America

Impact Search and Placement

Industrial Air Solutions

Integra Precision Tooling

InTrading

IpeDepot.com

irsauctions.com

Italpresse

J & G Machinery

J and B Hardwood Co.

J&P Machines

J. Gibson McIlvain Company

JMHsoftware.com

Joos USA Inc.

JusDust.com

KCD Software

Kentucky Pacific Lumber

Kerber Farms and Mill

Keystone Wood Specialties

Keytrix Data Systems

Kleiberit Adhesives USA, Inc.

Kreg Tool Company

Kremlin

Lacy Cypress Inc.

Laguna Tools

Leadermac USA

Leitz Tooling Systems

Lewis Lumber Products

Lignomat

Limtech Industries, Inc.




Jigs for a Moulder

      Examples of jigs and rigs that can help you run custom crown moulding on your moulder. April 21, 2011

Question
I've become pretty proficient at making crown with my W & H. It's a real joy to have the crown finally match my species. I haven't actually had the time to try anything other than crown, but I do run after base shoe and 3/4" quarter round a lot. It's usually not the best quality, nor does it match well. Is anybody doing either with your W & H and if so, any tips?

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor J:
Though I haven't run those two profiles, I would suggest a vee shaped fixture attached to the bed of the machine to facilitate downward pressure from the feed rollers and capture the moulding in position as it travels through the machine. You may already incorporate such a fixture.



From contributor L:
Since the machine is open ended, you can get chatter on any profile no matter how small. The solution is to make it a closed end machine whenever you can. The other surefire method for nice moldings is to get the speed control setup. The 17ft/min is pretty quick and makes for moldings with good sized mill marks.

Here is the setup I use for making the machine a closed ended machine.


Click here for higher quality, full size image

Here is a breakdown of the sliding stop.


Click here for higher quality, full size image

Images by Leo R Graywacz Jr., LRG WoodCrafting



From the original questioner:
Thanks. That's what I was looking for, contributor J. I knew my current setup for crown wouldn't work for me. Contributor L, several months ago when I got my machine I asked for help and you showed me your setup. I decided to try it without doing anything and quite honestly I don't get any chatter marks to speak of (hardly needs any sanding), but I'm only running it on about 3 and making multiple passes. I suspect you get by with less passes and I may still consider doing what you've done. Have you made any base shoe or quarter round?


From contributor L:
I do a 5" crown in one pass; only time I do a second pass is on the setup board. No, no quarter round. The smallest molding I do normally is a band molding that is 1 3/8" w and 5/8" thick. I still use the closed end setup and run it at about 5-7ft/min. Rub some 150 grit on it and you are set for finishing.


From contributor W:
I use mine to make the bracket feet on this cabinet, the drawer front, and the reeded pilaster. It also makes a 1/4" bead I use in beaded face frames. I've made arched casings on cabinets, elliptical casings on windows, replicated old mouldings, etc. I found you have to keep the knives sharp. I sharpen them on my Tormek sharpener and don't have to sand anything.


Click here for higher quality, full size image



From the original questioner:
That's gorgeous - thanks for sharing. What jig(s) do you use on your Tormek to sharpen your knives? I have a Tormek and am trying to figure out how you do it.


From contributor W
I do it by hand. I use the grinding wheel and grind the back of the knife, and if it fits, I'll use the leather strop. You can't grind the cutting edge, or you'll ruin the knife.

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining: Setup and Maintenance




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2012 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB













  •   Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article